UKC

anyone know any good climbing/bouldering places around Sheffield?

Wharnecliffe crags are good, was up there today and had a bit of a climb. Was thinking about setting some bolts down on a couple of routes

Are we bored after coming home from a few pints in the pub?

-1/10

And get your spelling and phraseology correct. Like doh!

It's Wharncliffe, and nobody sets some bolts down, even on crags that are totally sport.

The crag on the by pass nearby already has bolts so maybe you'd be better off there.

hahahahaha you rated a message on a forum out of 10.

Why do either of those things matter? you understood what I said, my message was communicated effectively and effective communication is literally the purpose of any language. Doesn't make you superior to someone if you've been climbing longer or use the 'phraseology' correctly

Oh sweet, cheers man I'll look it up

a few pints were had yes, figured this would be the place to look for routes near me

There are no routes round Sheffield that would suit you. Norfolk would be the ideal place for you to go climbing.

how so?

Bolted gritstone is as likely as finding rock climbs in Norfolk.

not exclusively sport climbing at all, just looking for stuff to climb. Mainly gone indoors until recently, just started venturing outdoors and looking for any good spots.

Actually there's a Norfolk Arms in Grenoside, only a stone's throw from Wharncliffe.  However it's currently closed for refurbishment

The -1/10 was for how bad a bit of trolling your initial post was, but having seen your subsequent posts, I'm concerned that it was actually serious.

The comment about spelling etc. was with respect to your initial post being a troll, more likely to succeed if those things are correct. Of course if it was a serious post, then the correctness etc. is much less important since the content did communicate the meaning.

cheers for the concern mikey, apologies for being new to the sport. Only mentioned it because I had to stop a couple of climbs because I didn't want to go too high without protection, and the ones I did manage, looking back on it with hindsight was just quite reckless.

Would still appreciate it if anyone could point us to any good spots.

The Rockfax Eastern Grit guidebook should give you a few ideas, it includes Wharncliffe and most of the crags close to Sheffield.

cheers!

Reasons it looked like a troll...

1. Asking if there's decent climbing/bouldering near Sheffield is a bit like asking if there's any sea near the Isle of Man.

2. Wharncliffe is gritstone. Bolts on gritstone is a massively huge no-no, as you will no doubt begin to understand when you're no longer a trad newbie.

I would suggest you invest in the Rockfax Peak Bouldering guide.

Wharncliffe is not the best place to start out, some nasty landings. I would suggest Burbage South valley boulders. Bus to Fox House Inn (just inside Sheffield city boundary so reasonable bus fare), then 15-20 minutes walk.

yeah, I know Sheffield good for climbing, was just a roundabout way of asking where exactly to go.

Thanks for the tips though! only went wharncliffe, because its like a fifteen minute walk from my house, and can't go the gym till payday, so I thought I'd head down and get a feel for the rock and work on my foot placement and stuff. Got a little over excited though, and did notice the very rocky landings and figured if I'm gonna do that again I should definitely get some protection.

Know fox house inn pretty well, don't recall ever going Burbage though, so I'll definitely check that out, cheers.

So whats the deal with grit stone and not bolting then? I've heard a lot of trad climbers just don't like using bolts full stop so assumed it was that

I think it's only fair to point out (before someone else does) that Wharncliffe isn't actually millstone grit but a closely related type of rock. That doesn't mean that bolting it would be acceptable, though.

If your original question was genuine then I should confess that my reply about the by-pass crag was not. There are definitely bolts on it but not the type used in climbing and since the cutting was only excavated thirty years ago the rock is probably not ready for exploration yet. That's apart from any access issues which might arise.

There are plenty of scrambles, safe mod and diff solos and boulder problems at Wharncliffe which I'd be a very regular visitor to if I lived 15 minutes from it (you are lucky as very few live that close as it takes nearly that long to get to the crag from the parking). We include much of the unlisted stuff on our Offwidth site  (not all of which is included on the UKC databases    Wharncliffe Crags  ):

http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/wharncliffe.html

http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/wharncliffe_woods.html

These need a Flash browser to view on a tablet or phone  (eg Proton) but as an example of what we did there I copied a section for the Woods Upper Tier here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/bouldering/wharncliffe_upper_tier_low_gra...

A few old threads discussed this weird situation where there were more routes listed in 1900 than in 1989. For example:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/wharncliffe_lost_routes-598174

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/rare_uk_guidebooks_-_your_help_needed...

Strictly speaking Wharncliffe isn't gritstone btw, it and quite a few other Peak sandstone crags are a different sandstone sedimentary form to gritstone, but are often bundled together and called gritstone for convenience.  

Trad climbing in many areas of the UK has a special history, including its developed climbing ethics, and to protect that, that often includes a no bolting rule... this applies to all the sandstone crags in the gritstone areas. Anyone adding new bolts will find they will be quickly removed. There are very few exceptions... some old aid routes (where trusting the old bolts is brave) and a few climbs with inescapable tops with locally agreed very specific exceptions for bolted belays. Partly because of this, the 'I'm going to bolt gritsone' troll is a regular visitor to UKC and about as tedious as it gets. With your opening post most people here would just call troll. I'd prefer people just answer the questions, as huge numbers of new climbers wont even know 'boting gritstone' trolls are a thing (even though sneaky trolls will exploit this!

cheers man! very helpful

yeah, won't lie it seemed like a snobby climbing core being all cliquey, but apparently I've accidentally stumbled into this bolting war.

Might have exaggerated a bit with the 15 minutes, takes me 5 minutes to get to the woods entrance next to the river (across from Lowood club) then probably another 15 maybe 20 to the craggs.

Will have another look at those things you've sent next time I go down, thanks

There are loads of helpful people here and the more people talk climbing the less traction those just looking for an argument will have. Stick with the site.

For the quickest way up:  just after the first tunnel a narrow path (often used by mountain bikes)   heads off right... follow this winding path up to a big track (maybe take a stidk to clear nettles mid summer) cross this, through a gate, and a path leads up and then left to the southern tip of Deepcar edge.

And Wharncliffe gritstone(or whatever you want to call it) is a really good summer grit venue. Positive holds and jugs instead of slopes and although it does get midgie it's not as bad as the main Eastern edges. 

Lovely crag, perfect beginner territory and loads of history. Brilliant! 

I'm a bit confused by the notion that gritstone is only a cool temperature climbing rock type. It's a recent idea as far as I can see, but I'm more interested in knowing at what point on the grade scale it starts to matter. I would have thought that with the aid of chalk most gritstone routes up to E3 (the limit of my experience more or less) are feasible whether it's January or July. 

Of course, if most climbers on UKC are regularly leading at a higher level than this on grit then I'll go back to slagging off Clarkson and militating for a complete ban on the noble art.......