UKC

Heart of darkness - mowingwood access

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Heading to Pembroke at the weekend and keen to get on Heart of Darkness. I'm struggling to make sense of the info on BMC RAD but does anyone know if it is possible to do most/all the route at HVS or below avoiding the relevant areas?

 Porky 10 May 2022
In reply to Danbow73:

I was there last week. There is a ban on diedre sud right wards but the notice at the top of the crag specifically says that HOD is not banned as long as you do an alternative finish such as blowin in the wind rather than new morning

In reply to Porky:

IIRC the original finish to HOD was up Diedre Sud. Is DS itself banned or just to the right of it?

In reply to Michael Hood:

Too late to delete/edit, the access info for  Mowing Word - from RAD - makes it all clear.

Post edited at 07:14
 Porky 10 May 2022
In reply to Michael Hood:

Diedre Sud and the normal finish to HOD, New Morning are banned. This info is from an up to date notice posted at the top of DS

 Mick Ward 10 May 2022
In reply to Danbow73:

Access aside, it's probably worth waiting until the sun's been on it. We foolishly went on it mid-morning and it was the most greasy route I've ever done. Brilliant though. Must have been amazing for Jim Perrin first time across. 

Mick 

 PaulJepson 10 May 2022
In reply to Danbow73:

Take a can of spinach with you if you plan on finishing up Snozwanger. 

In reply to Danbow73:

If I did the alternate finishes are they doable at HVS or do you have to do the E1 crux's as you join partway up?

 PaulJepson 10 May 2022
In reply to Danbow73:

I can't speak for Blowin' in the Wind but Snozwanger second pitch is E1. I think the second pitches are generally the money pitches so you'd need to be solid on E1s, especially after your arms are blown from HoD. I found Snozwanger very hard going, even though it used to get HVS. 

When we did it there were nests all over Diedre Sud so I would imagine that corner is OOB when the restriction is in place. 


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