UKC

Merlin (Tremadog)

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 BMC Cymru 27 Nov 2023

Following the flake falling from the second pitch of Merlin. 

The lower Rienetta slab still has alot of small loose debris on it, the first pitch of Merlin is untouched and clean to climb.

The first belay has changed quite drastically and there is still some suspect blocks at the belay, however there is a safe belay possible. 

The second pitch of Merlin, Merlin Direct and the pitch of Dragon is pretty clean now and there doesn't appear to be any major loose blocks left, however all the lines have changed.

By sticking to the line of the original Merlin route, you are now looking at similar grade of climbing but quite run out (4m ish), were originally you could lay back of the flake, and get some gear in. Stepping left onto Merlin Direct finish is similar, there was another flake that has gone but difficulty is similar. Stepping right up the original Merlin route is unaffected.

The new line at the back of the grove is now at around E2/E3 6a, Merlin Super Direct, is again free of loose rock, however still a bit of mud around. 

 john arran 27 Nov 2023
In reply to Alex Riley:

Unless I'm confused, that topo makes Merlin direct direct look a lot less direct than Merlin direct! 🙂

And if I wasn't confused before, perhaps I should be now!

 Alex Riley 27 Nov 2023
In reply to john arran:

I think it's just the angle of the photo, the direct direct goes straight into the Merlin direct headwall (exiting where dragon did previously) where as merlin direct goes up, right up the wall then steps back left to rejoin where it went previously. Merlin goes off to the right at this junction.

In reply to Alex Riley:

It’s very odd because to uninitiated into this whole new very obscure subject of ‘Where does Merlin and its variants go now since the rockfall’, the name ‘direct direct’ implies a more direct line, whereas the photo topo contradicts this.

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