I imagine everybody in the world knows this except me, but what's the deal with the access on this crag? I have the impression from the Churnet Bouldering guide that it's now banned. Is that right, or did I get the wrong end of the stick? It didn't seem to be especially viciously policed when I walked up that way the other day, so maybe I just misunderstood.
This is the reply I got from the guidebook author when I asked the question
Ousal lies on private land as too does Stoney Dale. The Forestry leases the land from the owners. The forestry were willing to ask the owners for climbing to be allowed, and them being advertised in the guide but advised against it, as there is a very high probability they would say no this could lead to access problems when they aren’t currently any The forestry requested the removal of Ousal & Stoneydale not only to protect their lease contract but to protect me, the author and the publisher. The problems found on these two venues have been allowed to be included in the graded list and may find the way onto Peak Bouldering and Ukc :whistle: The Forestry and Natural England were very grateful that they have been involved, as it’s the first time climbers have liaised with the landowners and other organisations in the lower Churnet. Its shows all parties working together and it could be useful to have them onside for the future. Natural England has especially been helpful not only allowing us to climb on new blocks within the SSSI units but the cleaning of them also.