/ Wintour's Leap and Ban-y-Gor access 2018

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Rick Sewards - on 09 Apr 2018

Hi all

As in recent years, it appears that peregrine falcons are nesting on the far right-hand end of Fly Wall at Wintour's Leap, and so please do not climb any routes to the right (south) of Dragonfly (HVS 5a) - the restricted area includes Big Fly Direct (E1 5a) and Jos'e and the Fly (VS 5a). Signs have been placed at the approaches to the restricted area and above the cliff.

At Ban-y-Gor last year, following discussions with the Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT), it was agreed not to climb any routes to the left of Heady Days (6b+) on the Main Cliff.  The GWT were happy with climbers' observance of this restriction, and as agreed at the time I re-visited the cliff with the GWT reserve manager earlier this year.  In principle, the GWT were happy for the permitted climbing area to be extended as far left as It's a Sin (7a+) (so allowing climbing in the Apedex and Cemetery sectors as well as the Head Sector), but subject to nesting restrictions as last year (and it appears this year) peregrines have nested on the left hand side of main cliff.  Therefore, for the moment please do not climb any routes beyond (to the left of) Heady Days (6b+) (there is already a sign in place to this effect).  It is possible that when we have established exactly where the nest is, we may be able to extend the permitted area somewhat further left depending on the location of the nest, and when the nesting season is finished then routes as far left as It's a Sin (7a+) can be climbed - providing the restriction is observed in the meantime.  



BMC Wye Valley Access Rep

Post edited at 22:40
springfall2008 - on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Thanks Rick,

Can you update the RAD message for Wintours so it shows for this year on the crag info?

Wintour's Leap


megamonkeyman on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Thanks for the update. Picked a laminated sign up from Woodcroft quarry today and lashed it back to the tree. Looks like it had been torn off, ripped at the holes?

Not been windy has it.

A disgruntled local passed us at a belay on the offa dykes path murmouring "bloody tourists" so we may have a knob head kicking around.

Rick Sewards - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to megamonkeyman:

Thanks for the update and for putting the sign back up.  I will speak to Kevin from the GWT about the cliff-top sign, as it's possible that it does more harm than good by attracting troublemakers to the site (there have been significant disturbances from non-climbers in the last couple of years), and anyone approaching from below will see one of the signs I have posted down there.  On the other hand, it does warn anyone thinking of abseiling in (to climb the upper tier only) who would otherwise not come across a sign.  

I have requested an update to the RAD



badgerjockey - on 12 May 2018
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Hey Rick, any update on the peregrines and their location? I presume still a no-go left of Heady Days?

Thanks for the continued efforts with GWT.

Mark Stevenson - on 13 May 2018
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Had my FIRST ever visit to Ban-y-Gor on Friday. Can't believe I hadn't been before.

Great venue. Many thanks for everyone's effort to secure and maintain access.

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