Rockfax Description
An intimidating wall topped by some big overhangs. Walk down the path to a position under a large iron spike in a niche at 3m.
1) 5a, 36m. Pull directly up to the iron spike (or come in from the left). Exit the niche on the left and move up to a slim corner and follow this to a break at an overlap. Move right and pull over and rightwards past a peg to a ledge under an overhang. Gain a sticking out flat block on the left and pull past the overhang (peg) on its left and climb the crack above to a small overhang. Move left and up past the overhang to gain the midway ledge.
2) 5a, 13m. The corner past a peg to a good ledge and belays.
3) 5a, 10m. Go left along the ledge to under a wall just right of a corner. Finish rightward up the wall on good small holds. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Ultimate E1 ticklist , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tim Bevan | 16 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Only two pegs left in the belay above the second pitch, top peg snapped when I pulled on it. Other two look solid enough but are concreted in so hard to tell. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Only two pegs left in the belay above the second pitch, top peg snapped when I pulled on it. Other two look solid enough but are concreted in so hard to tell. |
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| ClimbingNut | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: hexes might be useful to protect the top crack of p1, it's not entirely attached so cams might push it outwards... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: hexes might be useful to protect the top crack of p1, it's not entirely attached so cams might push it outwards... |
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| mikedunk | 22 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The first peg is loose but seems secure enough, the bolts further up are generally off route - would recommend extenders or long draws as there\'s not much other gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first peg is loose but seems secure enough, the bolts further up are generally off route - would recommend extenders or long draws as there's not much other gear. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Surrealist P3
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)