UKC

Rockfax Description
The right end of the crag presents an intimidating wall topped by some big overhangs. Start by walking down the path to a position under a large iron spike in a niche at 3m.
1) 5a, 36m. Either pull directly up to the iron spike or come in from the left. Exit the niche on the left and move up to a slim corner and follow this to a break at an overlap. Move right and pull over and rightwards past a peg to a ledge under an overhang. Gain a sticking out flat block on the left and pull past the overhang (peg) on its left and climb the crack above to a small overhang. Move left and up past the overhang to gain the midway ledge.
2) 5a, 13m. The corner past a peg to a good ledge and belays.
3) 5a, 10m. Go left along the ledge to under a wall just right of a corner. Finish rightward up the wall on good small holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch is a BIG lead, very sustained but never too difficult with a variety of styles required. Second pitch gives good honest jamming/laybacking up the corner to a none too inspiring stance and belay - better to carry on to the top.

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist, But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tim Bevan 16 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Only two pegs left in the belay above the second pitch, top peg snapped when I pulled on it. Other two look solid enough but are concreted in so hard to tell.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only two pegs left in the belay above the second pitch, top peg snapped when I pulled on it. Other two look solid enough but are concreted in so hard to tell.
ClimbingNut 15 Jul Show βeta
βeta: hexes might be useful to protect the top crack of p1, it's not entirely attached so cams might push it outwards...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: hexes might be useful to protect the top crack of p1, it's not entirely attached so cams might push it outwards...
mikedunk 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The first peg is loose but seems secure enough, the bolts further up are generally off route - would recommend extenders or long draws as there's not much other gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first peg is loose but seems secure enough, the bolts further up are generally off route - would recommend extenders or long draws as there's not much other gear.

Logged Ascents

204 users have logged this
69 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 48
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

No Musketeers (Direct Finish)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)
Loading Notifications...