UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrines nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pitches of Left Hand Route (from the great ledge)

 

NOTICE: 30th April 2024 - Peregrines have been reported to be nesting on King King. Please avoid this area of the crag. It is likely that the crag restriction will be amended once it is confirmed if this is North Wall pair, or an additional pair.

Rockfax Description
An intimidating wall topped by some big overhangs. Walk down the path to a position under a large iron spike in a niche at 3m.
1) 5a, 36m. Pull directly up to the iron spike (or come in from the left). Exit the niche on the left and move up to a slim corner and follow this to a break at an overlap. Move right and pull over and rightwards past a peg to a ledge under an overhang. Gain a sticking-out flat block on the left and pull past the overhang (peg) on its left and climb the crack above to a small overhang. Move left and up past the overhang to gain the midway ledge.
2) 5a, 13m. The corner past a peg to a good ledge and belays.
3) 5a, 10m. Go left along the ledge to under a wall just right of a corner. Finish rightward up the wall on good small holds. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tim Bevan 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Only two pegs left in the belay above the second pitch, top peg snapped when I pulled on it. Other two look solid enough but are concreted in so hard to tell.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only two pegs left in the belay above the second pitch, top peg snapped when I pulled on it. Other two look solid enough but are concreted in so hard to tell.
ClimbingNut 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: hexes might be useful to protect the top crack of p1, it's not entirely attached so cams might push it outwards...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: hexes might be useful to protect the top crack of p1, it's not entirely attached so cams might push it outwards...
mikedunk 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The first peg is loose but seems secure enough, the bolts further up are generally off route - would recommend extenders or long draws as there\'s not much other gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first peg is loose but seems secure enough, the bolts further up are generally off route - would recommend extenders or long draws as there's not much other gear.

Logged Ascents

249 users have logged this

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 53
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wurlitzer

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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