UKC

Following on from the Joe Brown biography thread, are there any biogs that you would like to see being written?

I have two, firstly JW Puttrell from the early days in the Peak. There was a self published book based on his journals but by no means an insight into the person. The trail may be too cold to unearth on this one.

Secondly please would someone document the adventures of Pat Littlejohn, I hear that he is a very modest person who would probably not write his own story but as such an influence on modern climbing his contribution needs to be written about.

Not seen anything about Charlton Chestwig yet

The Bonington years are very well documented but I've often thought Pete Boardman could deserve a biog. It would obviously be subtitled "The Shining Mountaineer" I met him a few times we were both alumni of the NUMC. His early writings in the NUMC journal are worth reading.

Has anyone written a biography of Pete Livesey? Apart from his climbing there's his caving, canoeing and running to consider. He was controversial and influential enough for it to actually be an entertaining read as well.

Yes, John Sheard and Mark Radke, very elusive to obtain sadly.

'Fast and Free' got published a few year years ago - for a review, see http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2014/05/fast-and-free-pete-liveseyreview.h...

Never managed to get hold of this. Livesey's own writing was brilliant as well.

My understanding is that someone spent many years chronicling the 'different Petes', i.e. climber, caver, paddler, runner, orienteer... and got lost in it all. Then got pipped by the Radke book, which, as I understand (haven't read it), is a collection of essays about Pete the climber. 

Good effort if so. Pete changed climbing forever. But Pete the climber was only one of his many personae. And underneath the many personae lay Pete the person. For whom we're still searching. 

Mick

Does anyone know of a biography of Jack Longland? He would be top of my list. Both intellectually and physically gifted, he was a cutting edge rock climber: Javelin Blade (E1 5b)must be a contender for first E1. He was also a distinguished mountaineer, being a member of the 1933 Everest expedition. But what makes him a particular hero of mine is his pioneering work as a progressive educator, driven by a fierce belief in equality of opportunity.  As Director of Education for Derbyshire he opened the first outdoor pursuits centre. Towards the end of his life he memorably expressed his dismay at watching the forces of conservatism attempting to destroy his work. 

The Pete Livesey book is a collection of maybe 40 (not counted) pieces by various friends plus some (maybe all?) of articles written by Pete him self. Although most are about climbing there are also articles on caving, running & orienteering. You've probably already read many of the chapters but worth tracking down a copy.

I only met Pete Livesey a few times when he ran ML courses at Buckden Lodge in the nineties and once at the crag. I recall a friend of mine in the eighties who was astonished to learn from me that Pete had been one of the best climbers in the country. She had only known him as a skinny lecturer running courses at Ilkley College.

He once tried to hide some burnt toast under my mate's baked beans at his Malham cafe. A true polymath, "the Michalangelo of British rock" 

I know John Sheard. Want any help? 

No I'm good thanks Linda. You could ask him how many were produced or whether they'll be a reprint. 

Regards Peter 

Mark E Smith 

Elusive indeed, and very expensive if found! I'm sure it'd be very good read.

The “Michelangelo of British rock” was a sobriquet more frequently reserved for Dave Knighton I believe.

Or, on reflection, that might just have been ‘Lancashire rock’…

What makes you say that?

Yes, I was wondering too. I was getting into climbing at about the same time Dave was very active on the Lancashire scene. One of my caving buddies knew him when he worked at Lancaster Uni (I think) and I don't recall any controversy surrounding him.

It wasn’t a controversy. I seem to recollect, in the Lancaster and South Lakes stamping ground that I then bestrode, DK was sometimes referred to in those terms. It was more an expression of admiration and jealousy of his good looks and overall style. But maybe I am romanticising that period amidst the slow burn that is an apology  my own climbing chronology. 😀

When I read the quote above, I had assumed that it referred to a propensity for chipping!