/ Best early season South Wales Sport crags for F6s
As it says on the tin!
Quick drying, plenty of sun, good spread of grades up to 6c, ideally in the S Wales Sport Rockfax.
Ideally further afield than Wye Valley, somewhere in S Wales sportfax
Tirpentwys is supposed to be pretty good, if you're to the east. Gilwern I can vouch for - dries very quickly, and the two parts of the crag face different directions so there's usually some sun to be had. When I lived in Swansea there were a few crags on Gower that were quite good, but are all pretty cold if the sun isn't out and the wind is blowing - Trial Wall at Rhossili (not that much quality stuff but plenty to go at for mileage - although it's worth checking the SWMC wiki as some decent stuff has been put up since the Rockfax guide came out, especially White Noise (6c+) if you don't mind a little crunchiness), Third Sister (long walk-in by sport standards and the routes there are a little over-starred), Bowen's Parlour, and Bosco's Gulch (both tidal but good suntraps).
Abbey Buttress is very quick-drying and Gaz 316 (6b+) is quite good, but I don't know that it's worth driving all that far for - possibly a good option if you're coming from the east and a Gower trip doesn't go to plan/you're not quite done. In the same area Dyffryn is supposed to be quick-drying but didn't seem that way when I visited, and the routes didn't look to be particularly inspiring.
Wyndcliff Quarry is obviously also good, although again the quality there isn't massively high. Tons to go at though, and I thought that Shin Gi Tai (6b+) and Diminishing Returns (6c) were both actually quite good, rather than simply passable.
Navigation Quarry gets my vote.
Look on the southwales climbing wiki(SWCW) the southwales mountaineering club wiki is now inactive. As suggested tirpentwys,gilwern etc seem a good option and there is loads down gower.
Three sisters including the newer routes at sister 2.5 and Saddams wall
This week's Friday Night Video is from UKC regular David Linnett. The short clip features Johnny Dawes climbing the Roaches classic Chalkstorm, although in Johnny's modern style: hands-free.