/ Best early season South Wales Sport crags for F6s

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Owen W-G - on 14 Mar 2019

As it says on the tin!

Quick drying, plenty of sun, good spread of grades up to 6c, ideally in the S Wales Sport Rockfax.

Thanks

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HakanT on 14 Mar 2019
In reply to Owen W-G:

Wydcliff Quarry in Wye Valley fits the bill.

Wyndcliff Quarry

Post edited at 16:20
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Owen W-G - on 14 Mar 2019

Ideally further afield than Wye Valley, somewhere in S Wales sportfax 

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Droyd on 14 Mar 2019
In reply to Owen W-G:

Tirpentwys is supposed to be pretty good, if you're to the east. Gilwern I can vouch for - dries very quickly, and the two parts of the crag face different directions so there's usually some sun to be had. When I lived in Swansea there were a few crags on Gower that were quite good, but are all pretty cold if the sun isn't out and the wind is blowing - Trial Wall at Rhossili (not that much quality stuff but plenty to go at for mileage - although it's worth checking the SWMC wiki as some decent stuff has been put up since the Rockfax guide came out, especially White Noise (6c+) if you don't mind a little crunchiness), Third Sister (long walk-in by sport standards and the routes there are a little over-starred), Bowen's Parlour, and Bosco's Gulch (both tidal but good suntraps).

Abbey Buttress is very quick-drying and Gaz 316 (6b+) is quite good, but I don't know that it's worth driving all that far for - possibly a good option if you're coming from the east and a Gower trip doesn't go to plan/you're not quite done. In the same area Dyffryn is supposed to be quick-drying but didn't seem that way when I visited, and the routes didn't look to be particularly inspiring.

Wyndcliff Quarry is obviously also good, although again the quality there isn't massively high. Tons to go at though, and I thought that Shin Gi Tai (6b+) and Diminishing Returns (6c) were both actually quite good, rather than simply passable.

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Ianto Bach - on 14 Mar 2019
In reply to Owen W-G:

Navigation Quarry gets my vote.

I

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freelunchprovider - on 15 Mar 2019
In reply to Owen W-G:

Look on the southwales climbing wiki(SWCW) the southwales mountaineering club wiki is now inactive. As suggested tirpentwys,gilwern etc seem a good option and there is loads down gower.

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Eugetj - on 15 Mar 2019
In reply to Owen W-G:

Three sisters including the newer routes at sister 2.5 and Saddams wall 

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