UKC

Was at Chudleigh Quarry on the south face doing some top roping on Friday just gone. On the walk out we stopped to have a look at the seemingly less climbed North Face. It appears to have been properly rebolted whilst leaving the older trad routes still intact.

This was backed up by a facaebook post from a group called rock and moor who have rebolted with seemingly land owners permission and that of the Devon and Dorset bolt fund.

When you say rebolted do you mean that the bolted routes or bolts that were previously there for use by the activity centre have had their bolts replaced or have previously unbolted routes been retrobolted? 

There have been bolted routes on the North Side for many years, with many listed in the current CC guidebook (2018) in the Highway 65, Tropics and Notch areas. If any remaining routes have been fully bolted in that area I don't see a massive problem, I think this was already the case when I walked round last year but didn't climb. I hope if any new bolting has happened since I was there that it doesn't extend onto the Garden Wall. 

Hi, just clarify, the North Face (previously bolted) routes from Valkyrie Rib to Ben Gunn have been re-boulted, Route 66, Ivy League, Ancient Mariner and Tropic of Cancer remain as the original trad routes. This was all done in agreement with the land owner, who was keen to make the crag safer and more accessible in the hope it gets more traffic to maintain the climbing. It was also agreed NOT to extend the bolting to the Garden Wall area as these are good previously unspoilt trad routes. Also this area has rare plants and Lichens which give the North Face and gardens its SSSI status, so any aggressive route cleaning is also discouraged on the Garden Wall area. A topo and crag update will be posted on UKC very soon. All the best. Mike  

Also there are now good lower-offs on all the rebolted routes, which saves the fight through the gorse & mud! Hey, but that's half the fun. I tried brushing off the accumulated dust from the bolting yesterday, but the recent rain has turned it into something approaching concrete. Well it resisted a good scrubbing. It probably requires a bucket of water and scrubbing brush. Did you find the same Mike?