UKC

Climbing in Mexico

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 Trevers 03 Aug 2021

I'll be visiting Mexico throughout September and October to visit my girlfriend in Mexico City. I'd like to sample some of the rock the country has to offer. She's not much of a climber so it's no the main focus of my trip. Going out with some guides would seem to be the safest and most convenient way to get anything done.

El Potrero Chico has of course caught my attention, and I'm looking to hire a guide to take me up a route or two. However, my girlfriend is concerned that the north of Mexico and Monterrey especially are unsafe. My understanding is that the park itself is safe enough, and I'd hoped that taking a pre-booked shuttle directly to our accommodation should be safe enough. Has anyone been there recently or know any more about the situation and whether it's safe for travellers?

Another destination that we're keen to visit is the Peña de Bernal. This seems to be a fairly established climbing area. However, when I search for local guides, the only thing on offer seems to be guided activity days for non-climbers type of thing. Has anybody used or know of any guides here?

Finally, I'd also be keen to find local cragging around Mexico City. I'm sure it must exist but I just can't find a huge amount of information around. There isn't a Mexican equivalent of UKC unfortunately.

Of course if anyone is about in Mexico during that time and thinks they might be keen to get on something together (and save me the expense of guides), I'd be happy to hear from you!

Thanks in advance for all responses.

 ashtond6 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Trevers:

I don't know about guides but I went to:

Los Dinamos in Mexico City

Los Pericos in Puebla (relatively near to cdmx)

Peña de Bernal seemed very relaxing and safe - it has an easy ish via ferrata to get most of the way to the summit. If you are competent you could probably do this alone. Seems to be a few guides if I Google.

 ChrisJD 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Trevers:

Whatever you do , don't watch Narcos or Narcos-Mexico on NetFlix...  :-0

Climbed at El Potrero Chico twenty years ago (for a few weeks); it was just fab and all the Mexicans we met were incredibly friendly and we had zero hassle; but that was 20 years ago.

One thing that always sticks in my mind as to how great the Mexicans were: at the airport on way home, my partner (now wife) had left her swiss army knife in her hand luggage; the security guard said 'no worries, we'll put in in your hold luggage' ... which they did ! (and no, there wasn't a few kilo of coke put in there as well).

Post edited at 18:11
 gazhbo 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Trevers:

I went to Chico in 2009.  I got a bus from Houston to Monterrey which went across the border at Laredo/Nuevo Laredo which was not advisable at the time but felt fine.  Monterrey seemed pretty safe but I think it was considered "safe" then but I recall a few news reports about incidents in the years after.  

You don't need to stay in Monterrey very long to get to Hidalgo.  Hidalgo is a pretty small town and feels very relaxed.  We hitchhiked pretty regularly from Hidalgo up to the campsite (can't remember which one - La Posada maybe, it had a swimming pool).  We were pretty much the only climbers there and the only people at all at the campsite at all other than at the weekend when loads of Mexican families rocked up.  It was July though which is too hot really.  September/October might be better.  I think its very busy in January.  I'd love to go back when it wasn't 35 degrees!

Mexico generally is awesome and I remember enjoying DF a lot more than I thought.  We also went to a few places further south (not to climb).  Have an awesome time!

Post edited at 19:00
 Sredni Vashtar 04 Aug 2021
In reply to Trevers: maybe the mountain project forums might be useful. i would have suggested supertopo but that sadly died a few years ago.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/106883636/international

Post edited at 21:20

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