UKC

What's the crack in getting this done? Do you have to run like the clappers, or can it be done with ease?
Anyone done this?

In reply to Jon Massey:

You mean the one on Lundy?

If so you are on the island so it is just like any other route on the island.

Bob

In reply to Jon Massey: If you mean can you get the boat out do the slide and get back in the same day then yes this can be done.

I was staying on the island and a friend of mine who couldn't manage to stay came out we did the slide and he caught the boat back (just!)

In reply to Jon Massey: done with ease i hear. solo even!

:0)

Si

In reply to Jon Massey:

Its about half an hour from the village as I remember, a bit longer from the boat as you've got to get up to plateau level first. Navigating is easy if you follow the big path up the east side to the correct wall, then cut straight across and follow the cliff-edge path on the west side - the top of the slide is fairly distinctive, especially since it comes all the way up to plateau level.

I'm pretty sure the route took us not that long - one long pitch from the bottom up to the big boulder which is the obvious abseil point (it does just about go in a ropelength, but its a full length, you'll have centimetres rather than metres left on a 50m rope), then a pitch up the groove, then the traverse pitch, then a scramble out the top.

Enjoy it, its a nice route, although there were others at VS and below which I enjoyed more on the island............

AJM

In reply to Jon Massey: Can be done if all goes well. Allow one hour to walk from boat to top of descent gulley.
15 minutes to ab two down to bottom of route. then four pitches of soft touch HS. Say one hour. If you`ve abbed off somebody elses gear you`re okay if you haven`t had to queue. If not you have to retrieve your sling you abbed off. A short queue might be handy cos finding the gulley to get down is the hardest part. Then one hour back to the boat.
Piece of cake if all goes well.
All the best
Rob

In reply to Jon Massey:

Why anyone would want to spend only one day on Lun dy I don't know....

In reply to Father Faff: can`t argue with that Maybe classic rock ticking should have asked.
All the best
Rob

In reply to Father Faff:

If you're a family man, you will understand!

In reply to AJM: What guide do you need for the island?

In reply to smonki:

Try the Lundy guide Although it also has a section in South West climbs.

In reply to smonki:

Clmibers Club produce a guide called, oddly enough, "Lundy". Its quite good once you get started, but expect a bit of faff finding abseil points and so on at the start. There is a downloadable supplement from the Climbers Club website as well to get you up to date - some grade changes etc (2 things which aren't in that - the abseil into immaculate slabs is not 120 feet, more like 170, I ran out of rope on rope stretch, and controlled burning has fallen down in a large part, I don't know whether whats left is climbable by the sane and at what grade)

It also appears in "South West Climbs", by Pat Littlejohn, although personally I find SWC spreads itself a bit too thin in the other areas for me to want to buy it - its not bad for Lundy, but for several of the other areas it can be a bit limiting......

AJM

In reply to Jon Massey:

I don't know if it's possible in a day....but the route is quite easy, finding the top of the route, getting in etc will be the deciding factor.

If there are already people there that will make it easier to find but you might then end up stuck behind a slow party if you wish to move quickly.

Basicly, if you've not been before: on arrival head up towards the lighthouse, walk up the west coast past the three quarter wall and you'll see it. Do the route and then leg it back and you might make it.

J

In reply to Jon Massey:

Diamond Solitaire is probably the best bet for a day trip.

I'd say that it's a better route than The Devil's Slide as well, no question.

That's assuming that you're not just going for the tick, of course.

In reply to Jon Massey:

I haven't been to Lundy since I became a family man, that's for sure...

In reply to Cosmic John:

At the grade Albion is a much better route on that slab, however I know where he's coming from D.S is the most famous route on Lundy.

J

In reply to Ropeboy:

Yes, Albion is great, and better than The Devil's Slide again.

But Diamond Solitaire is quicker to get to, and much easier to find. That's what I was mainly getting at.

In reply to Cosmic John:

Yes, that's a great route too, but the thread's about D.S.

Best we did was probably Redspeed on that butress followed by Satan's Slip.

J

In reply to Ropeboy:

Satan's Slip is much better than Devils Slide - especially if you are more of an HVS leader. American Beauty is another excellent soft-touch E1.

In reply to Father Faff:
in reply in general, satans slip is a very good route and i feel should be awarded the "climb of lundy award"

although pretty scary, i havent been climbing since!!!

In reply to AJM:

Controlled Burning's been reclimbed at the same grade with no great change, apparently. Hard to believe from distant visual inspection but reliable source.

jcm

In reply to darren guest:

>satans slip is a very good route and i feel should be awarded the "climb of lundy award"

Probably true, actually. Either that or Widespread Ocean of Fear.

jcm

In reply to Jon Massey: Only ever done it once as a mass solo. Several years ago we had delay in getting there due to bad weather stopping our fishing boats from sailing. Arrived Lundy sometime around 5-6 in the evening and had a meal booked in the pub around 8-30. Decided to do a 4 person solo of Devils Slide 'cept 'Pete the Vet' went one better and soloed Satan's Slip. We got to the pub in time for the meal. So, yes, it can be done! Done both Satan's Slip and Fear of Faust since then and they can be done pretty quickly too, cos you don't have to waste much time putting gear in. Good routes, but instantly forgettable because they're pretty mucch the same move repeated a lot of times. Good picture looking down Fear of Faust on my profile if you want to see what it looks like.

In reply to Anonymous:

From your reply, I guess you've seen it since then (as obviously has your source who climbed it) - I left a week or so before it was meant to have come down - what exactly has happened to it, has the whole top roof dropped off, or have bits of it come out, or what? All the reports I heard at the time were a bit vague as to how much of what was said was exaggeration of the damage and what was a realistic view of what happened.

Any idea from your reliable source whether it is as good as it was meant to be beforehand? Its not exactly within my reach currently (possibly ever), but I'm curious.

AJM

In reply to darren guest:

Ah, now although I think it is a good climb that is stretching it. I always thought that for a climb to be great or three star it must have certain attributes as follows: position, exposure, line and variety of climbing types. With Satan's Slip the position and exposure are good, but the line is indefinite and, as I have already said every move is the same more or less. Compare this with say, Heart of the Sun at Baggy, which only rates two stars, mainly, I would assume, because of the deteriorating top pitch. In all other respects Satan's Slip does not hold a candle to it and they are both slab climbs in the south west and so bear direct comparison.

In reply to Cosmic John: i agree albion is good but i dont at all egree with the guide saying its sustained!!

In reply to splatt: I would say 40m of continuous 4b/4c climbing on a VS is sustained

In reply to Cosmic John: If time is pressing, Shamrock in Landing Craft Bay is an option at a similar grade.

In reply to PeteDeb:

Oh I agree that Satan's Slip is nowhere near the best climb on the island, but I do think it's the climb that most epitomises the island's climbing. I assume that was what the previous poster meant.

In reply to AJM:

I only saw it from a distance, but the right hand side of the inverted V roof at the top (the one GG is pulling through in Extreme Rock) has dropped away. Since the finish is above the roof on that side, I gather there's a bit of looseness. My informant was Dan Donovan by way of a thread on here posted by duncan (or is it duncanc) - anyway, a search should reveal it. May be some more details. Looks pretty bad from a distance but DD didn't seem to think it was that big an event.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:

You think ? I would have said Satan's slip was very atypical: Easier access than most, more crowded than most areas, not as steep as most, nowhere near as varied as most, no where near as protectected as most.

At the grade, I'd say Indy 500 epitomises Lundy climbing better.