UKC

Hi all.

I am heading to the Dolomites with my GF for 10 days ish towards the end of June and looking for some advice on where to stay and what to do.There is so  much info out there it is a bit overwhelming. As she is quite new to Climbing we will be sticking to very easy climbs (hope to get some small multipitch done trad or sport) and Via Ferratas along with some hiking. 

Looking for crag/ area recomendations. I have the rockfax guide. we can camp but also plan to stay in a refugio and or Air b and B for some time as well. We are driving so can get around. 

thanks in advance for the recomedations. 

Any of the towns around the Sella Group (Piz Boe). Corvara or Colfosco would be my recommendation.

Lots of low grade sport here: Citta dei Sassi (City of Rocks)

Multi pitch trad: Via delle guide (IV+) or other at the venue.

Thanks will take a look.

What do you call small and easy?

Small in the Dolomites is less than 10 pitches and no max grade 5+ ish maybe the odd 6a pitch. Thanks  

Also just seen you have a place out in the dolomites, by the sounds of things it might be a bit big for me and my GF but if you know of any good value accomadation you can recomend that would be amazing. Thanks 

In terms of trad routes you could do worse than look at the Sella towers. Great position and some good climbing. The descents are a bit more serious than some and they are popular. 

Lagazuoi is also worth a shout as there are routes there which fit the bill,have a fairly trivial walkin and are easy to descend from. 

Cinque Torre is a classic warm up area but it can be crazy busy. Lots of steady routes though.

Sass Di Stria South Arete is a cracker too in that area. 

Torre Falzarego has a good few options, some with the benefit that it's split in two so you can do the first half by one of the easier routes like the Comici, and you can continue if you have energy/time/a happy wife...

Sport climbing wise in that area there are the small Slabs on Sass Di stria, also some on lagazuoi, loads at 5 Torre.

My place has 2 lerson apartments, you can see it on airbnb best, just type in Casa Alfredino. My manageress also has other apartments or if you need something a bit more budget, you could take a look at BnB Palue which is up the road from us. In general our valley is quiet, close to Venice for flights and is a little cheaper. There are some climbing options directly in the valley which would suit too like the Marmolada Slabs by the dam at the pass.

Hi Beardy one! Pray tell more! Where exactly are the Marmolada Slabs? I'm up there pretty often skiing Marmolada and have never noticed them. Right by the dam you say...so north side or south side? I've tried Googling but haven't found anything. You also mention other options directly in the valley. You mean (easy!) sport climbing...? Would appreciate some pointers for these too.

Thank you sir!

The Slabs I'm talking about are in the rockfax. They are located on the North ide of the mountain, at the western end of the Reservoir (which is staying sadly empty these days after the serac collapse led to concerns of an avalanche reaching the Reservoir and overwhelming it and flooding the valley below). Basically park where the old cestovia to the hut started, walk up the hill beneath the old lines for 30m the right, west along a path for 150m. You'll see signposts to a ww1 kitchen, go through the ruins and up behind where a small path leads up to some easy angle Slabs. The routes (15-20 of them) are all between 3+ and 5b I think.

There's another very obscure place at the other end of the dam by the actual pass. Where the ski piste comes down to meet the hut, just to the left there are again some really beautiful water worm Slabs. These have been partially bolted and are between III+ and V- and around 3-4 pitches each. The top outs are a bit dirty with some of the rubble from the piste spilling over, but they are really enjoyable routes. If you climb these there is also a route which reaches the top os sass de mul, again partly bolted, some drilled threads at V-. It's a good combo and you will be 100% on your own as its not written up anywhere. The walk in is at max 5 minutes...

Other than that in that area there's Sass de Roccia but the grades are kinda sandbaggy, a little crag above the road just south of Caprile, there's a couple of sport crags (all quite hard) in Malga Ciapela. All detailed in the guidebook by La Rivolta. And Andraz which is fun. 

At some point I need to write thise routes at Fedaia up...

Nice! Thank you...very useful.