UKC

Easy climbing Lands End - Penzance

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 Kerm 08 Aug 2021

Please could you direct me to some very easy climbing with as good access as possible? Unfortunately I don't have the guide for this area and can't see where to buy one. Cheeeeers x

 spenser 08 Aug 2021
In reply to Kerm:

The 2 CC guidebooks for West Penwith are brilliant (he would say being on the committee of the club), alternatively if you want something which covers the whole of the West Country Rockfax do South West Climbs which is decent. Loads of threads from over the years about good crags to visit in the area for easy routes.

 Mark Kemball 08 Aug 2021
In reply to Kerm:

You can buy the CC guides from the club's website - https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/south-west/west-cornwall/ 

 Babika 08 Aug 2021
In reply to Kerm:

Another recommendation for the CC guide. Lots of routes at easier grades and clear info on access.

 The Norris 09 Aug 2021
In reply to Kerm:

Lands end long climb is an excellent day out. Easyish, but definitely adventurous for the grade I would say. I dont recall the approach being difficult, and I'm a massive wimp.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lands_end-211/lands_end_long_climb...

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 thegrowler1981 10 Aug 2021
In reply to Kerm:

Bosigran would be my recommendation, easy access and some low grade action to be had. Would recommend getting the guide book though so you don't go wrong on a route. Also Sennen has some great climbs but slightly harder access and routes too.  

 Mike Conlon 10 Aug 2021
In reply to Kerm:

Haldrine Cove ticks most of your boxes. Park as for Bosigran but head right on paths to drop down the St Ives side of Bosigran. Easy climbing and pleasant location. The only issue if you have novices in your party is a short traverse to the base of some of the routes.

 Jamie Wakeham 10 Aug 2021
In reply to Kerm:

If you want very easy then I wouldn't head to Lands End Long Climb - it's a real sandbag at VDiff.

The very easiest in terms of access and climbing will probably be Halldrine Cove - no abseil, single pitch, and lots of routes at Diff and VDiff.  It's an excellent first day's warm up before trying some of the straightforward multipitch routes on Bosigran itself (start with Alison Rib) or some of the tougher single pitch stuff at Sennen.

Sadly the CC bodged Halldrine up completely, ignoring the route names that had been in use for almost 20 years, and overwrote them all in their latest definitive (and I see that the logbooks here have recently all been deleted as well).  But the old pdf is still available here https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/WestCornwall/Halldrine-Cove.pdf

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 Offwidth 10 Aug 2021
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

Haldrine is the best I'm aware of. 

I wasn't aware established route names were ingnored, I hope this wasn't due to retro-claims: it takes some ego to rename established low grade routes when any prior ascent and original names can be recorded in the FA notes for the historical record.

 Trangia 10 Aug 2021
In reply to The Norris:

> Lands end long climb is an excellent day out. Easyish, but definitely adventurous for the grade I would say. I dont recall the approach being difficult, and I'm a massive wimp.

I wouldn't recommend the Long Climb for someone looking for "very easy climbing".  The jump is intimidating, but definitely character building - not for the faint hearted

 Jamie Wakeham 10 Aug 2021
In reply to Offwidth:

Five routes were recorded there in the 2000 guide, three dating to the fifties with two added in the eighties.  I have no idea if further routes were sent to the CC before and ignored, but I suspect that this is quite likely.

I started writing my miniguide in the early 2000s, naively believing that we were new routing - and in my defence I had a recent and allegedly definitive guidebook in my hand. 

Versions have been in circulation since 2002, published in OTE and on Javu, and for something like a decade it was actually downloadable as a pdf direct from the CC website - I see it's been removed from there now.  There were many hundreds (probably low thousands) of ascents logged on here, and whenever I went back I met people with printed copies of my guide.  But when the latest definitive came out the CC were very uninterested in engaging with me at all and decided to overwrite everything.  The descriptions I'd put into the UKC logbooks have gone now too, replaced with 'no description has been submitted...'

I'm over it now - clearly the CC's version will win out - but their dismissive attitude still rankles.  So does the fact that I see Tom Last has decided to write 'total bollocks' about my work in the logbook on every route there...

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In reply to Trangia:

> I wouldn't recommend the Long Climb for someone looking for "very easy climbing".  The jump is intimidating, but definitely character building - not for the faint hearted

Indeed - I would go so far as to say it's the silliest recommendation I've seen for some time.

It's far from an original recommendation, but for good reason - Alison's Rib and Black Slab have been popular for this purpose for the best part of a century.

jcm


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