/ Lake district climbing recommendations

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Danbow73 26 May 2019

Planning a trip to the lakes and struggling to decide which area to go to. does anyone have any suggestions for classic multipitches up to and including VS as well as places to camp? I've been to Borrowdale before but wasn't climbing anything above VDiff at that point!

Cheers

Dan

In reply to Danbow73:

If it's during a decent warm/dry spell (ha!) then Pillar Rock is hard to beat, as are the Napes.

Langdale has a large amount to offer for everyone at those grades, as does Dow.

Mark Eddy 26 May 2019
In reply to Danbow73:

Dow, Gimmer, White Ghyll, Pavey Ark, Black crag, Scafell, Gable, Esk. All offer brilliant routes. Where is best will be weather dependant. Scafell needs hot conditions (20C+ in the valleys) and a dry spell to be at its best. Gimmer will dry far quicker and be somewhat warmer.

Jon Stewart 26 May 2019
In reply to Danbow73:

The best place for a short trip in good weather is Wasdale - it's remote, beautiful, right in amongst the biggest crags and fells. In a dry spell you can climb on Scafell, the biggest and best crag Botterill's Slab (VS 4c)Moss Ghyll Grooves (VS 4c) Mickledore Grooves (VS 5a).  Pillar (long walk-in, unfrequented, but big) and the Napes (Gable, south facing, more accessible). It's a long drive but worth it, it feels much more like a trip into the mountains than the other valleys. There's a choice of pub campsite (small field, can't take your car in) or NT (presumably eye-wateringly expensive, and it's a trek from the pub). The pub is good.

Eskdale is beautiful and quiet, and gives access to Scafell and Esk Buttress (big, remote crag - in some ways the best crag in the Lakes as it's South facing and relatively low lying Medusa Wall (VS 4c) Bridge's Route (HS 4b)). Long walk-ins up a really wonderful valley.

Langdale is the most convenient with lots of crags, none as good as the above, but much more choice and shorter walks. Gimmer The Crack (VS 4c) and Pavey are the big crags. Also a number of accessible valley crags. OK pubs and campsites, shortest drive - it's a great place.

Coniston is a nice place with a big campsite by the lake, decent pubs, and gives access to Dow, which is an accessible mountain crag of a good size, and has the best VS in the Lakes, Eliminate 'A' (VS 4c). But other than Dow, there's not much (there's slate, but it's harder grades). Not far from Langdale, so I'd probably stay in Langdale and drive round to Dow for a day if you go.


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