UKC

Has anyone climbed here?

Any route recommendations would be welcomed. Or any massive sandbags to avoid?

Tried a 7a today thinking it would be a nice onsight attempt. 45 minutes later I’d stick clipped my way up the the 12 metre route and still couldn’t work out how to do some of the sections! Hoping to avoid a similar experience tomorrow…

Notorious! Harshest grading in the Alpilles.

I was thinking about trying my first 8a, and also got a nice bottle of wine for if I managed a 7c. I might need to reign those grades in!

Today seemed so far off the mark. I can’t think of a 7a I’ve tried in the last 3/4 years that Ive not managed second go. It was a cool route but I wasn’t sure if the 7c next to it was in the guide wrong!

I went there once. Dogged a 6b+ that was at least 7a.

Or the world even?

Well well well. Operating at a significantly lower standard than you, I found the place a bit 'challenging ' as well. Nice to know I'm not alone. 

Never been, though I have climbed a lot nearby. Mouriès always seemed like an Alpilles version of Cimaï (which is amazing btw).

Heres Sharma ‘enjoying’ the old school vibe

https://www.petzl.com/DK/en/Sport/video/Chris-Sharma-travels-back-to-the-fu...

You are not far from the Supermarché >Cavaillon>Oppède. I’d go there. Some good 7b+ to 8a as well as harder. Stunning. And steep.
https://www.thecrag.com/fr/grimper/france/provence-cote-dazur/avignon-prove...

They should have put him on one of the 6b’s by the sound of it! 
 

We will see how it goes today with a bigger team. Maybe we can scrape up something between us. 
 

I loved one Logbook comment - “this isn’t a sandbag, it’s an entire flood defence!”

The north face with the meadow is one of the most pleasant crag environments anywhere. Happy memories of Du Brut pour Les Bruts 6c.

That Route is my plan for today. Most ticks on UKC (9!!!!) and no DNF logs. It’s looking like the most hopeful…

Ah yes, I knew I recognised the name. Unlike you, I don't remember it, though. And yet you haven't logged it (just interested to see the date...)

Day 2 update. Did some 5c leads (nice climbing and nice bolting (if you’re okay with big runouts on very easy ground). Top roped two 6b’s which were both pretty tricky though grades not a million miles off.

Went for an onsight on Du Brut pour Les Bruts 6c at the end of the day but got stopped by the crux. Really long span to an okay but very slippy 2 finger dish, then an even longer span to a mono dink which I could use to bump again to a jug.

Going to get back on it today. Will see how it feels on redpoint. Nice bolting on it though, but I imagine if you’re much smaller than me (6’ 1”) the crux would be super hard!

Think we’re going to bail to Ceuse soon as it’s so hot!

It will have been late 80s or early 90s. I joined UKC in about 2004 and really couldn't be bothered to upload over 30 years activity from my trusty exercise book (which I have currently mislaid)

I had to redpoint it from memory, I'm 5.10 and a bit.

Years later we were playing hacky sack in the meadow; I was on a rest day. I was  challenged to throw the hacky sack into the porthole near the top and succeeded on my first or second attempt. I then had to gear up and redpoint it again placing the clips to retrieve it. We had given a relative beginner a lift to the crag who was both baffled and impressed by these antics. I might have omitted to tell him that I'd done it previously.

Ha, I'm 5'8".... "There's no such thing as a reach problem, just a power problem...!"

Of course, Lynn Hill wasn't necessarily right about that! I guess it was less polished in 1988.

I think my problem is I can often use low feet which means I pull less on the holds, but can make the move feel harder than it actually is…

I think I’m definitely using my reach too much then 😂

And that’s a great story!

Glad to see from the replies above that it wasn't just me that thought Mouries grades were tough. Add a bit of polish on the (so-called) easier routes and it was even more fun. In the shade though - what's not to like?

Dave

Day 3 update. Did the 6c okay after finding a sensible sequence. Managed a direct but it must have been 7a/b that way. Correct (I think) sequence was rather steady…

I live just over an hour away. I know there's some shady walls there but when it's 35°? Mourieres??

E

Don't come here expecting sympathy for being tall..........

Especially when it turns out it was my bad route reading!

It’s not been too bad climbing there. Though we’re on the way to Ceuse now.

You really should Pete. When I did that it was a really nice nostalgia trip.