UKC

Hey,

At the end of this month I'm heading to the Paklenica National Park ( Paklenica Gorge) in Croatia for a week, I've been a few times before but still would like some recommendations on what climbs people think I should try and get on the most? Up to and including 6a really but happy to hear about routes of a slightly higher grade as hopefully by the end of the week I'll be climbing better.

Single- or multipitch?

Either / both ideally. Certainly looking forward to getting on some multi-pitch routes out there but I'm sure I'll be doing some single pitch days too.

Velebitaski (6a+) on Anika Kuk is tremendous and Mosoraski (5c) was good too though there my have been a rockfall on the latter? Both huge routes (ca 12 pitches) with bags of exposure. In general we found the grading tough compared with Spain and Greece and the easy access single pitch stuff rather polished. It's best to walk further up the gorge and you'll find fantastic rock and far fewer climbers. I'd recommend a helmet and a small rack (plus water, windproof, snacks and trainers in a rucksack on Anika Kuk)  - it's more mountain crag than your average sport area.

Thanks very much for those, both routes I've not done previously, Mosoraski certainly looks like one I'll be getting one, will have to see how I'm climbing out there for Velebitaski!

Multi pitch:

• Domžalski (6a) (technical, friction slab)
• Karabore (5c) (groove)
• Danaja (5a) (nice and easy) 

above three top out at about the same place and can be continued to the top of Anica Kuk via

• Brid za Veliki Cekic (5a) (wild double traverse pitch and smooth groove higher up)

other have also recomended

• Velebitaški (6a+) (crux spot can be tricky when wet)
• Mosoraški (6a) (crux pitch is polished, upgraded to 6a in current guidebook, gets crowded)

a few of my personal favorites of this difficulty are:

• Zgrešeni (5b)(short and sweet, 3 pitches, wild exposure with semi-hanging belays)
• Nosorog (4c) (classic introduction above the upper car park)
• Sjeverno Rebro (4b) (nice ridge line, bring a few cams and slings)
• Watersong (just nice climbing)

If you feel strong and don't mind a bit of aid try Klin (6c+) (aid over two hard parts, sustained but amazing climbing)

Single pitch climbs are rather polished and not that special anyway.

Thanks for those, that's certainly a lot to keep me busy and only a couple (Nosorog & Sjeverno Rebro) I've done before, however they were great routes so might repeat as my climbing partner hasn't been here before.