UKC

Looking for recommendations for multi-pitch moderate routes (say up to E1 or maybe E2 if not terribly runout) around Wales for end of May.  Have a couple of things in mind already that we’d really like to try (Dream ..of course… & Gogarth at Gogarth) but what else would you recommend?

Have done some homework, as in paged through a half dozen guidebooks, but I think I’d need to buy another dozen to really get a better insight into what’s there.

Sea stacks are very appealing since we don’t have anything like that in the US.  Pen-y-Holt (single pitch I know) as an example looks fun but seems to be closed for nesting till mid-summer.  Inland crags/mountain routes would be great too but perhaps end of May is not the optimal season for those?
Many thanks in advance.
 

Your problem with Pen-y-Holt is not nesting restrictions but the fact that you are only allowed to climb in the Range West area if you have attended an army briefing. There are no more briefings this year.

If past dates of the briefings are a good indicator for 2020, I think we could make one of the late May meetings next year which I think would allow us access? But I thought that the BMC RAD page shows it as closed for nesting till Aug. 1st.

Search the crags database on this site. You can see which routes are starred.People give their views on routes. You can see when routes have been climbed. It’s very good for getting a feel of things. The main thing with UK climbing is to be flexible - have a car and follow the best weather.

Dinas Cromlech

A little confusing. Your thread title - "moderate" is our easiest adjectival grade = 5.1. Whereas E1 is about 5.10. See https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/comptable.html 

Moderate means average/not that hard in this context.

Lots of fantastic safe e1/2 multipitch at tremadog. Vector, the weaver, the neb,  barbarian, the plum.

Dinas mot has superdirect, plexus, nexus, 10 degrees north.

Dinas cromlech (not necessarily multipitch but excellent). Cenotaph corner, cemetery gates, left wall.

Gogarth

Dream, North West passage, Atlantis/true moments, quartz icicle.

It was closed until August 1st. It is now August 17th.

Actually, the BMC RAD does not show any bird nesting restrictions for the Pen-y-Holt area.

There were restrictions there this year and the pots indicate that it is an annual restriction.

For the real mountain experience get onto the higher crags. This one is a great day out:

Kirkus's Route (VS 4c)

Then there's the classic Idwal enchainment (lots of variations possible at all sorts of grades:

Idwal Slabs (perhaps Tennis Shoe (HS 4b)

Holly Tree Wall (perhaps Piton Route (VS 4c) or Original Route (VS 5a)

Continuation wall (perhaps Groove Above (S 4b)

Then up to Upper Cliff of Glyder Fawr (perhaps Grey Rib and Slab Combination (VS 4b).

It's a magnificent day out, with nothing harder than VS

Well the RAD needs updating in that case.

Thank you for all the route recommendations.  I've been able to find most of them in the guidebooks & it seems like we have a good menu to choose from (depending on weather forecasts) next spring.