UKC

137m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route, perched above the steep east wall. Great positions and rock, though a bit polished in places. Start left of the main slab at a smaller slab tucked in against its edge.
1) 4a, 30m. Climb the subsidiary slab, on polished holds, to a stance on the ledge at its top.
2) 16m. Move right up a scoop onto the main slab and climb its edge to a good ledge.
3) 15m. Continue up the slab to a large flake. Belay here or just left in the open gully.
4) 35m. Climb up the gully then transfer to the rib on the left. Climb this on its left edge to a ledge.
5) 40m. Easier climbing leads to a grass terrace. Walk left to below the final rock tower.
6) 4b, 15m. Climb up past a scoop (delicate and slippery) to gain the slab above. Pull for glory over the perched block to finish! There is an oft-climbed easier alternative to the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , CUMC Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , Ultimate HS ticklist , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Snowdonia in Chains , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Big Ogwen Day Out , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Big Boy Pants , 2020/21 Trips , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2022 , Wales Multipitch , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , R&T , Slab Dreams , No you're a punter , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Extreme Rock! , Ben's Trad Ticklist , Dewimpification , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS , 2024 , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Efe Tunc 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The last pitch of this route is an add-on. It is entirely disconnected from the first five so typically linked via a grassy ledge like other multipitch routes in the UK. It should be named as a separate route at HS 4c.
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βeta: The last pitch of this route is an add-on. It is entirely disconnected from the first five so typically linked via a grassy ledge like other multipitch routes in the UK. It should be named as a separate route at HS 4c.
liensiwel 2 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Highlights were when we went off route and found unpolished rock. Expected it to be bad but not marble.
βeta?
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βeta: Highlights were when we went off route and found unpolished rock. Expected it to be bad but not marble.
Professor_Professorson 26 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't stay too long in the gulley. There are a lot of ledges for P4 and P5 so look at the picture carefully if you want to get to P6, ended up just going direct as it was easier
βeta?
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βeta: Don't stay too long in the gulley. There are a lot of ledges for P4 and P5 so look at the picture carefully if you want to get to P6, ended up just going direct as it was easier
IainMunro 21 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Polished and a little overrated…?!
βeta?
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βeta: Polished and a little overrated…?!
el_tiburon_malo 1 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Simply can't muck this one up. Possible belays everywhere and no tricky climbing that isn't easily protected. We linked pitches 1/2/3 and 4/5 pitches with a 60m rope. Good stuff!
βeta?
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βeta: Simply can't muck this one up. Possible belays everywhere and no tricky climbing that isn't easily protected. We linked pitches 1/2/3 and 4/5 pitches with a 60m rope. Good stuff!
Salvo1 4 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I combined pitches 1&2, we then alt lead remaining pitches, Ell on last. Late in day so scrambled back down instead of climbing on
βeta?
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βeta: I combined pitches 1&2, we then alt lead remaining pitches, Ell on last. Late in day so scrambled back down instead of climbing on
Puckle 5 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rain eased and we were only the second team on the whole crag, ran the first two and 4th and 5th pitches together, heroic finish with little gear…or was that just me?
βeta?
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βeta: Rain eased and we were only the second team on the whole crag, ran the first two and 4th and 5th pitches together, heroic finish with little gear…or was that just me?
jameswtrwrth 14 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky to find your way off...
βeta?
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βeta: Tricky to find your way off...
FallingBrick 20 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Belay on top of the final crux boulder - there are decent thread anchors to be found underneath to secure it and the views are great.
βeta?
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βeta: Belay on top of the final crux boulder - there are decent thread anchors to be found underneath to secure it and the views are great.
Babika 30 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route - perfect holds. Swedish success.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route - perfect holds. Swedish success.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal)

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 318
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 238
Votes cast 303
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Gem

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))

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