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alpine guides

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adlad 11 May 2011
Hi everyone,
the last few years i've done some mixed route winter climbing up to grade 4 and im wanting to progress, got the bug, so, I'm planning my first ever trip to the alps and I'm wondering if anyone has used or could recommend any guides or good course's to introduce me to alpine mountineering.

look forward to any replies, cheers.
 summitjunkie 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad: PYB are running two Discover Alpinism courses in Arolla in July. I've done several courses with them in the past, including Scottish Winter Mountaineering, and find them to be very good.
 Mark F 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad:

I used ISM a few years ago and found them to be excellent.

http://www.alpin-ism.com/
 The Ivanator 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad: Hiring a guide is much cheaper if you can share the expense. Courses are sometimes a good option when starting out, KE Adventure and Jagged Globe are both reputable UK based providers.
I've been impressed with all the Alpine guides I've had contact with over the years, I'm sure you could track any of these down with a bit of googling:
Mark Charlton, Kathy Murphy, Robbie Fenlon, Paul Farmer, Fred Auge.
 nightmonkeyuk 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad:
martin moran - very good outfit. Bases in Evolene/Arrola area.
 JLS 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad:

>"the last few years i've done some mixed route winter climbing up to grade 4"

I doubt you'd learn that much from a guide that you couldn't read about in a book or see in the BMC alpine video.

Fair enough if you want a guide to take you up the Matterhorn rather plot about lost due to the difficult route finding but don't expect to learn that much. The difficult things are learning about snow contitious and weather and I recon they are more things that come from experience rather than can be taught on any given day.
 JLS 11 May 2011
 Sofaking 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad:

Or you could join the Alpine Club.

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/
 Kris 11 May 2011
In reply to JLS:

In my experience there is always something to be learnt from a guide, but you have to be prepared with a range of routes you wish to do, discuss your goals beforehand and start the day(s) with an open mind and a long list of questions, ready to ask always why we are doing, what we are doing. Obviously the snow, the weather, the gear, the altitude - you just have to learn over time and experience but asking a guide to teach you as you go along is really useful! All the guides that I have been in contact with are great professionals, you can't go wrong really!

Experience is something you can't buy but you can learn from.

If you are just 'taken up' or attend a course with a bunch of beginners to be introduced to the Alpine climbing, then it is a bit wasted money. A guide is more than happy to switch their brain off and only talk through their regular chit-chat while going through the motions. Even so, if one day out like that gives you confidence to go climbing with your friends afterwards, then it is worth it!
 FrJ 11 May 2011
In reply to Mark F:
Likewise. A range of courses on offer. Real focus on teaching and learning independent skills, while also getting in some good climbing / mountaineering.
AJ Trevor 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad:

I used this British outfit based in Chamonix for my first Winter trip to the Alps.

http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/icicle.shtml

I did a real intro course because I had not climbed multi pitch routes above grade II at the time and it was perfect level for me with Alpine routes to AD, ice routes to WI4, + lots of good experience with snow shoes, avalanche awareness, snow anchors, crevasse rescue etc.

They do cheap acommodation over winter too.

If you are already leading Scottish IV then the intro courses might be a bit below your level but they do a whole range of stuff right up to custom 1:1 guiding.

Worth a look anyway I hope.
 AlH 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad: I can recommend a private course with either Rob Jarvis ( http://www.highmountainguides.com/ ) or Dave Hollinger ( http://www.peakmountaintraining.co.uk/about-us/dave-hollinger/ ). They are both passionate about their climbing and mountaineering, good fun to be around and will spend a lot of effort tailoring your course to you.
Al
mountainsheep 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad: Second for Rob Jarvis, met him on a jagged Globe course but then on a private week in Scotland with a friend. Very professional and can tailor the the trips around you.
www.highmountainguides.com
 Margaret 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad: I would recommend Alpine Guides - the name says it all. I did many alpine peaks over several years. http://www.alpine-guides.com/
maryah 11 May 2011
In reply to adlad: Cheapest way to do it is to go with UCPA in Argentiere. Its the French version of PYB (but they do speak english and use IFMGA guides). Costs from £612 for the more advanced alpine mountaineering course but includes everything - food, accomm, equipment, guiding, lift passes. The UK partners are Action Outdoors:

http://www.action-outdoors.co.uk/activity_mountaineering.aspx

However, every BMG that I've met has been lovely too
adlad 12 May 2011
IN REPLY TO ALL, who've taken time out to message me and given idea's and experience, thanks i will check then all out,

cheers..
 Sam-westcott 17 May 2011
In reply to adlad:
Rob Jarvis at highmountainguides.com is ace!
 jonesieboy 29 May 2011
In reply to summitjunkie:

I was in the Dix hut at the same time as a PYB course a few years ago, and they seemed to be offering a great experience despite crappy weather - all the participants were very happy.

Robert
 Diggler 29 May 2011
In reply to adlad:

Cant recommend these guys enough.

http://www.alpine-guides.com/mountaineering/index.htm

I have used them twice and find them to be excellent
Rolfe Oostra - 360 Expeditions 29 May 2011
In reply to adlad:

Look no further then Stuart Macdonald. He lives in the Cham and is one of the best around!!
graham F 01 Jun 2011
In reply to adlad: You can contact all British Guides here:
http://www.bmg.org.uk/index.php/eng/Hire-a-Guide

The e-mail form lets you explain what you want - you'll get a lot of replies and then you can discuss with each guide and work out something to suit. If it's for this summer then be quick - I'm fully booked now and so are many others.

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