UKC

Inexperienced alpine climber after some advice about conditions.

Over the last two years I’ve been mountaineering in the alps, the main topic of conversation has always been about the awful conditions in the hot weather.

Obviously, after only a few weeks in the alps over a couple of years, I really don’t have much experience - and the bad conditions are all I’ve ever known.

I’m after some advice on choosing routes that will be better to do in less than favourable conditions. I guess first I would like some clarification on what exactly the hot conditions cause: 

is the main issue rockfall, crap snow bridges, gaping bergshcrunds?

I’m embarrassed to say that while nodding along with more experienced people about the shit conditions, I’m not 100% certain what the main issues are.

so any advice on this appreciated!

Also after any routes around Chamonix/Courmayeur/Ecrins that would be okay in bad conditions, or even better - the type of routes to look for in a guidebook if I’m going to be in the alps during an inevitable heat wave… if such routes exist that aren’t just trail walks or rock climbs but still of ‘mountaineering’ flavour?

Thanks 🙂

In general the big problem with the heat is rockfall and bergschrunds opening up. That's normal in the Alps, but the heat makes it worse.

The AC report on Chamonix conditions is updated weekly:

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/chamonix-conditions

You can see that things are still good for the Aiguille du Tour, Domes de Miage and Mont Blanc de Tacul.

The Chamonix guides office gives free advice on all routes in the area.

There's no substitute for experience and local knowledge in terms of choosing a route that's suitable for you.

There was a lot of late spring snow this year, which has generally brought good conditions. The current heat may take its toll  however.

Thanks for the info. 

Apart from bergshrunds, what sort of difference to the glacier crossing does the heat make? Weak snow bridges are obvious, but is there a stage where the glacier becomes dry because of the heat… making it safer?? 
 

sorry if that’s a stupid question!

That's what happened last year. The crevasses were obvious. But, rocks travel faster and further on a hard, dry glacier.

The main risk, I would say, with crevasses is wandering off route. Especially if you are getting late in the day. That's a dangerous combination.

The heat is perhaps more a determining factor in terms of when the season is over for a route. If a route is still in good condition, then a hot day is an added marginal risk. But, if a route is out of condition, then it's dangerous in any case. A hot summer brings this on earlier. To the point where there is almost nothing left to do!

PS if the glacier is not properly frozen overnight  then generally glaciated routes are out. 

Understood. So a route would be considered completely out of condition when say, the glacier approach is still snow covered but hasn’t frozen overnight. Or a rocky ridge has become super loose making it hard to protect with lots of rockfall or a bergschrund has become impassable… ? (or all of the above)

So for example, something like Mont Blanc Du Tacul... assuming the glacier approach is okay, the normal route would be considered okay because avalanche risk would presumably be non existent and low rockfall risk? But something like Aiguilles Marbrees, even if the glacier approach was okay will probably be a massive rockfall risk in hot weather?

thanks for indulging my newb questions, only had a couple of days with a guide and there was already so many questions to ask I never really got to the bottom of the awful conditions and what made it so bad.

If you check the Chamonix conditions report, you'll see what routes are already out. Any route that needs good snow cover will probably not last the season. 

Avalanche risk is generally after fresh snow. The Tacul varies from year to year. This year it was good. That may change. You need to check for a specific route like the Marbrees.

I guess that was last year? We got a lot done with some good decisions, good luck and steering clear of Chamonix.

Temperature on top of Mont Blanc is forecast at 0C today!

Also with the Tacul normal route - important to distinguish between avalanche risk from the slope getting loaded with fresh snow vs serac fall - there are seracs at the top of the face which can go regardless of how much snow has fallen etc and they can sweep the route. So worth considering/asking about how they are looking too and if you do go up or down that way, don’t linger…

If it's really hot for a sustained period like last summer then i'd avoid rock routes held together by permafrost too. They seem to be in the 3300-3800m range.

Currently it looks hot today then gradually cooling into the weekend so although its hot its not the same conditions as last summer currently.

Camptocamp.org is a good resource for seeing what has been done

Also if the glacier hasnt frozen overnight then you're at much more risk of going in a crevasse and there will be more rockfall from any nearby rocky slopes.

The Alpine Club posted some advice last year about general mountain stability in the Mont Blanc area.  There have been some major rockfalls, including the popular Cosmiques Arete 

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/sustainability-news/1042-mountain-stabil...

https://gripped.com/video/watch-massive-rockfall-off-popular-chamonix-alpin...

I chatted about this with a British guide who works in the area, who said that the geology around Mt Blanc tends to be unstable but that other parts of the Alps aren't as vulnerable to the same extent.  The article mentions that the Aiguille Rouges are generally good , and the Valais is better too, as the strata are generally horizontal so less prone to slippage. One notable exception is the Matterhorn.

If it's useful to know we got caught in a massive rock fall on the approach to the gnifetti hut on Monte Rosa on Wednesday, car sizes rocks came right over us. We were crossing under the Indren glacier at maybe 9ish having caught the lift up, so not exactly super late. Pretty terrifying 

Mmmm, that's interesting. I'd booked a room in Gressoney la T., but cancelled a few weeks ago on reports of glacier conditions. I've walked between Indren and the Gnifetti a few times with no misgivings.

To be honest the lys glacier seems in ok nick. But the Indren is very very icy. 

Just FYI, saw 2 more rock falls from the Indren glacier whilst waiting for the lift today, about 1pm