UKC

Anyone got a suggestion for the best down jacket for Himalayan climbing at the moment or are they all much of a muchness?

In reply to climbtim: a very warm one.

In reply to climbtim:

a lot of choices.

make sure its got mesh inside pockets for extra gloves, chest pockets and a hood with a good neck buff if youre talking going high, eg MHW absolute zero

if its just for 6000m peaks and BC can be less spec, eg TNF aconcagua.

In reply to climbtim: I have to vote for the PHD jackets... I bought a Delta Belay jacket and an older model of their parkas some years back, and they are definitely doing the job! -even after 3+ years living in the arctic (down to -52!) and 3 trips to the HImalayas/Karakorum!!!

Not the cheapest around though


http://www.phdesigns.co.uk/insulated-clothing.php?cat=110

Morts

In reply to climbtim:
Where are you going and what do you plan to do? You may not need a down jacket.

You can do climbs in the Himalayas where you never stray above the snowline.

You can go to places at times where the nights are very cold, but you could take a lot of cheap, thick jackets for base camp (kit caarried by ponies or yaks), and for your ascents you could live in your sleeping bag.

Of course, for a winter ascent of something over 7,000m you will need substantial warmth

In reply to Morts: PHD have a Yukon in the festive sale that starts next week, with a goretex shell. Might be perfect? Boxwall, 800 fill down, hood, £186.

In reply to mrchewy: Agreed, I have one I got in their sale a couple of years back, in Goretex, but fortunately in Black. Good for most things other than 8000 or high and winter. Warm and packs small.

In reply to climbtim: For something like Island Peak or Ama Dablam, you can get away with a medium weight one, e.g. a Rab one. if going above 7000, probably look at the expedition weight ones.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: The best down jackets are made by everest hardwear in kathmandu and u can get them made to measure, depending on the down weight you want are circa $65-$120, i have had a chance to compare them on many occassions and are way better than rab, phd etc..... If you really want to but a western one go for a mountain equipment annapurna, they are prtty awesome too. Hope that helps.

In reply to climbtim:

PHD no question

In reply to climbtim:

Be a bit more specific than "Himalayan" climbing! 8000m, 7000m, 6000m?

In reply to climbtim:

Alpkit.

Sorry to be more specific Alpine ascent of a 6400mtr peak graded Difficile

In reply to climbtim:

Oh okay... so you are actually climbing. Not just extreme hillwalking.

In that case I'd avoid a down jacket all together. I'd take a sythethic hooded belay jacket, as they are much more robust and would be far better to climb in when you actually need to.

I went the Karakorum last summer to attempt a 6600m rock ridge in alpine style.

We wore a similar set up to what I'd normally wear in the Alps.

Legs:
wicking pants
softshell trousers
paclite over trouers

Torso:
thermal top
fleece hoody
hooded windshirt
sythethic pullover

In the bag we also had:
A proper Goretex jacket with a good hood, rather than a light one I'd take in the alps.
Very thin thermal leggings. (They weigh next to nothing and add a lot of warmth.)
A belay jacket with a big hood. We took the Mountain Equipment Fitzroy, which we found to be suitable for our needs and a very well designed piece of gear.

Also I'd take plastic boots with a removable inner rather than fancy zip up boots. In my, bitter, experience the later aren't very waterproof and near impossible to dry once soaked.

HTH

In reply to climbtim:

ME Annapurna suits me fine when I'm stopped and it's 15 below and blowing a gale. But I think Tom has a point, if you're actually climbing then go with your layers and a belay jacket. If I could afford some patagonia gear that's what I'd be taking.

In reply to climbtim: which one is it then we can be more specific with advice. cheers