UKC

Just heard that Kenton Cool, John Varco and Ian Parnell have been successful in their attempt on Annapurna 3. In this months American Alpiniste Magazine Conrad Anker rates the route as the number 1 unclimbed alpine line (he attempted it a few years ago). In superlight and fast alpine style "Cool and the gang" sent the route in 7 days, taking a further 3 days to descend. A big well done to those boys, and plenty to talk about on the upcoming lecture series!

In reply to Rob Wylie:

Bugger. There’s one hoped-for source won’t be giving me the beta on The Parson.

Sounds like a good effort, not that I have the first idea what’s involved, except presumably being very hungry for a prolonged period.

In reply to Rob Wylie:

Have to admit that as a flatland living bumbly who gets their news from the mags, the name John Varco isn't familiar to me.

Impressive stuff.

In reply to GrahamD:

John Varco is the guy on the patagonia advert of the guy in the heinous offwidth if my memory serves me. Sponsored by Mountain hardwear.

In reply to JR:

Top effort tho....

John

In reply to GrahamD: I'm pretty certain that the mags will give this a fair amount of coverage once the 'lag' of news breaking to printing catches up. If you can't wait till then get yourself to the Mountain Hardwear Lecture Tour, then you can here about it in person.

More information about dates, venues and speakers:
http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/news/article.asp?uan=2259

In reply to Rob Wylie:

Your details are at the top of the page with a list of threads.

In reply to Rob Wylie:

Bloomin 'eck. Can't believe it. This is MAJOR news. The most coveted line in the mountains to fall in the New Millennium?

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor at home: yeah congrats to them all...this is a BIG line...

In reply to Ian Hill:
Well done Ian. I always knew all that fat would be useful for something.

In reply to Rob Wylie:

Who the hell is John Varco? Another silent but deadly alpinist that goes out and does the stuff with little publicity?
Profile Rob?

In reply to sutty: John has a fairly low profile here in the UK, in the US John is pretty well known amongst the core climbers (i.e. he's not a household name). With this new line I'm sure he will be better known amongst core climbers here too. See the above lecture tour link for more info. and get yourself to either London or Bistol to hear him speak about climbing Annapurna 3. Look out for more info/profile when the news breaks in US and UK climbing mags.

In reply to sutty: john varco's that knarly chap jamming
on the patagucci ad

Lets have a look *scans about*

http://www.climber.co.uk/competition/info.asp (bottom of page)

...grrrr

In reply to Rob Wylie:

Not being well versed in this sort of thing, is 3 a usual number for this sort of ascent ? most of the accounts of super alpine routes I've seen recently have been climbed by pairs.

In reply to GrahamD: I agree definitely not the norm but it obviously worked out fine. I'll find out more from the boys once they are back in the UK (21st of November).

In reply to GrahamD: 3 very effective number for a team, allegedly, Read Extreme Alpinism, Twight, House and Backes on Czech Direct, Twight,House and Blitz on The Gift that Keeps on Giving, Gadd,Semple and Mahoney on Howse of Cards, etc.

In reply to tobym in work:

Clearly it works well enough. I just wondered on what length route 3 might become a better number than 2 ?

In reply to GrahamD: Just got back from Nepal on an earlier flight. Sorry to dissapoint everyone but we made the first ascent of the SW Ridge not the SE Ridge (Conrad Anker's Alpinist pick). It's a bit like comparing onsighting E7 with onsighting E9 or 10! The SE Ridge is "Sick sick sick" as Mr Varco might say (he's from the US) Nevertheless we were pretty proud of our new route which is the hardest on the hill so far and a first taste of proper altitude for us.

PS I should be able to cobble together a short video of the ascent to tag onto the end of my "British disease" lectures coming up in a week or two.

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Oh well if it is only worth the equivalent of E7 it was hardly worth the trip;-0

Well done, get some sleep. Hard nights drinking in Kendal tomorrow?

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Easy there Ian. Nice effort on the waddage line. How was the man Varco for that length of time? Is he allowed out for extended periods now. I've not seen him since last season in Cham when he used prowl around my shop scaring customers. Is anyone going out to the Alps this winter? By that I mean, Captain Kirk, Kenton et al. Cheers dude.

In reply to Ian Parnell: Well done Ian. Sounds like a fantastic effort and a fantastic route! Look forward to seeing some pictures.

My copy of Climber dropped on my door mat this morning, and first read was your Kandesteg article - fantastic photos and as result you totally spoilt my morning's thesis writing as I was generally staring out the window daydreaming about the coming ice season! The opening spread piccy was awe inspiring, but I was horrified to see from the caption that the route was WI4. It was completely disspiriting as I thought 'if that's Swiss WI4 I'm never going to be able to climb even that'. Much relieved when reading the text it turned out to be a misprint and should have been WI6!

In reply to Malcolm: John scaring your customers but he's such a softie! John and Kenny are still in Kathmandu (poor sods) so expect their mental state is somewhat tattered and overhung. Climbing with John was... well if you know the man you know what it was like. Lets say very entertaining! Infact the whoile climbing as a three was the key to the ascent and we are already planning various get togethers in the worlds hilld for next year. As for Alps this winter I'll almost certainly be heading out but probably for fklying hits rather any "for the season" type seiges. Kenton is doin his Scottish bit of the guides but suspect he won't be able to resist a quick hit.

In reply to JR: Does anyone have a copy of "that advert" staring John Varco?

Scott

In reply to scottm: try this link:

http://www.orbeclimbing.com/industry/adwatch.html

In reply to Anonymous:

hmm, seems to be 'temporarily unavailable'.

In reply to Ian Parnell:
Cheers Ian. Kenny a guide? Wow! Shouldn't he be getting in a bit of skiing practice .. if you know what I mean? Sounds like he needs to enlist the skills of the supremo, Mr Willet. If I could pose a question> I asked Mr Briggs about directions to get to Cragx (cham), but he said that he didn't know. Umm, interesting. So I figured maybe you know the golden path to enlightenment?

In reply to Malcolm: Believe Crag is called Les gras and that it is now bolted (presume our route retro bolted - all very French!) directions ah now I'm not sure about that but roughly from the industrial looking town 30mins down the valley from Cham. The one with all the flyovers and huge rock crag nearby. Head up the valley side on the Mont Blanc side for 20mins. Thats all i can remember! Oh dear those could be the worlds vaguest directions sorry about that will try and find out more.

In reply to Ian Parnell:
As always good to know you're still alive Ian.
Frank and I are going to be in La Grave from January 11 for 8 days, so watch out for falling debris if you're around.

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Cheers for the info Ian. I think I know roughly where you mean, if the big industrial town is Saint Gervais and the crag the rochers des fiz. I'm in Leeds at the mo before going back to the alps, I've heard your giving a lecture at the Adelphi next week. Do you know where the Adelphi is and the start time? Sorry about all the questions! Thanks

In reply to Malcolm:

The Adelphi Hotel, Hunslet Road, Leeds, LS10 1JQ
Go to www.multimap.com and tuype in the post code for directions. See www.heason.net for more detils on Ian's lectures.

MattH