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Himalayan routes - grade query

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 mcawle 16 Oct 2020

Theory question:

I was reading about Ama Dablam on Wikipedia (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_Dablam).

In the list of notable ascents, one component of some of the grades is in Roman numerals. Picture attached with examples marked up.

What is this? US commitment grade as per the Alpinist grade comparison (http://www.alpinist.com/p/online/grades, pic also attached) or something else? Obviously same format as both Scottish winter, UIAA rock, and NZ commitment grades too although I think it's less likely to be any of them. I'm curious.

Thanks!

Post edited at 00:22

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 Big Lee 16 Oct 2020
In reply to mcawle:

In Europe at any rate, it's usually an overall difficulty rating that accounts for length, descent difficulties, objective dangers etc. I can't find a link for it. If it's an American ascent then it may well be the grading system that you have ringed to add to the confusion.

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 mcawle 16 Oct 2020
In reply to Big Lee:

You're right, I'd forgotten that there is a commitment grade sometimes quoted for European alpine and sometimes WI routes too. Digging around a bit it seems there are a few variations on commitment grade, with different descriptions given but generally measured from I - VII in terms of increasing commitment. US system seemed to originally just denote number of days but European and NZ versions also seem to factor in e.g. remoteness and difficulty of retreat (although maybe in a way they are the same thing).

Thanks!

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 waitout 16 Oct 2020
In reply to mcawle:

Russia has a similar system.

Post edited at 11:36
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