UKC

/ Where to read about training for expeditions

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asdf123 on 23 Jun 2018

Hi

I am probably going to to go on an expedition sometime next year and am wondering if any of you have some recommendations on where to read up on how to train specifically for high altitude mountaineering (Books, blogs etc.)

Thanks for your help!

guy127917 - on 23 Jun 2018
In reply to asdf123:

The classic is Training For The New Alpinism by House and Johnson. It covers all major topics. There are a bunch of people on UKC following it's training methods etc.

Climbthatpitch - on 24 Jun 2018
In reply to asdf123:

As guy said above TFTNA is a great book. I would suggest having  a look at there website as well. It's called uphill athlete

 

Also if u are on Facebook take a look at the group training for alpinism 

bensilvestre - on 28 Jun 2018
In reply to asdf123:

Another vote for TFTNA, its a really good book, easy to understand and it defibitely hekped me to iron out some mistakes I was making

Guy Hurst - on 28 Jun 2018
In reply to asdf123:

Have a read of The Villain, by jim Perrin.

tistimetogo on 29 Jun 2018
In reply to asdf123:

Trip reports are a good source of background knowledge (and often interesting to read).

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/expedition-reports

http://mountain.ru (combine with google translate)

For serious training/planning have a read of Mr Twight's Extreme alpinism (old but still pretty spot on.)

PeterM - on 29 Jun 2018
In reply to asdf123:

If it hasn't been mentioned before there is a group on FB 'Training for Alpinism' that you can join for this very purpose.

Big Lee - on 29 Jun 2018
In reply to asdf123:

> how to train specifically for high altitude mountaineering (Books, blogs etc.)

TFTNA is good but there's a lot of information and some of it going to be overkill depending on what your objective is. I take some of Steve House's diet theories with a pinch of salt. I did a literature search a few months ago following something I read on his Uphill Athlete FB page and the literature seemed split 50/50. Something that wasn't really reflected in the article.

 

 

Damo on 02 Jul 2018
In reply to Big Lee:

> TFTNA is good but there's a lot of information and some of it going to be overkill depending on what your objective is.

I agree.

I take some of Steve House's diet theories with a pinch of salt.

And I'd apply that to the whole book / site / company.

 

Siward on 03 Jul 2018
In reply to asdf123:

Read Savage Arena . Sleep in industrial freezers .

Al Rouse, I think, said that the best training was to sit in an oven eating shit sandwiches (think that's in a Jim Curran book IIRC). 

Post edited at 07:37
andrewm1000 on 05 Jul 2018

Training for Peak Performance, Clyde Soles

 


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