UKC

I've recently replaced my venerable old Boreals (so old I'm not sure what they are), which have been resoled many times. I bought a pair of La Sportive Tarantulace - they fit fine and are comfortable enough for a pitch or two, and I thought they would gradually soften and fit my feet.

I've worn them for a weekend trip and 4 or 5 trips to the wall over the past couple of weeks. The result: my heels (just on the outside of the base of my Achilles tendons) are really sore. I'm having problems walking up or down stairs (and my house is up a flight of 40 steps!). Running is a disaster. I switched back to my old Boreals at the bouldering wall today. Every time I fell off and landed on my feet it felt like both my ankles were about to snap.

I need a new pair of shoes urgently. Has anyone got any recommendations - needs to be something that isn't going to cripple me, and which I can climb all day in - with aspirations to be climbing UK 5c/6a, F6c/7a.

Thanks,

Steve  

In reply to gooberman-hill: I'm not sure anyone can sensibly recommend you a pair of shoes as noone else has your ankles.. and their specific fit and problems. But I'm not sure where you should go to get a better idea of what you want.   A physio might be the thing , but you almost need a podiatrist specialising in climbing shoes!

Testing fit at a shop is one thing.  From what you do feel do you think the problem is fit, or do you think it's a kind of weird biomechanical thing?

In reply to wbo2:

I think it's fit. The top of the heel box is pressing into the base of my Achilles tendon on both feet.  I'm thinking I need something with a lower cut and/or less aggressively cupped heel box.

Steve

In reply to gooberman-hill:  ok I know someone who has similar.  Recent shoes he's had good success with are Evolv ( i think the heels terrible) and Tenaya .

 If Boreal work for you   , new aces,? though I haven't tried tbem

In reply to wbo2:

My wife has had a severe Achilles injury. She can't take pressure above her heel so wears low cut boots- currently Tenaya RA which are very soft and Tenaya Oasis which have a very straight heel.

In reply to gooberman-hill:

First up - rest - consider a physio-- if you fully develop your tendonitis/(bursitis?) you'll be off for months.

Secondly - I have found a great solution to this.

I got boots big enough to put small strips of neoprene (wetsuit) in the heel.  It really spreads the load and cushions much better than a standard heel.  If I'm doing a hard route/pitch I stick another strip of neoprene in which makes them tighter and more precise.

In reply to gooberman-hill:

I'm sensitive to aggressive shoes with a slingshot rand. Typically these are the downturned bouldering shoes. There are plenty out there that dont hurt your heel, typically intermediate level, all day comfort shoes like sportiva Mythos or Finale, La sportiva tarantulas, red chilli Sausalito, or Scarpa helix. Might be a little limiting on the smallest foothold, but you'll use your feet better If the shoes dont hurt

In reply to gooberman-hill:

That seems quite extreme. I would be careful that this is nothing to do with the shoes. I would be tempted to see a physio (take your shoes!)

In reply to Max factor:

Thanks Max. La Sportiva Tarantula lace ups are the problem 😭

In reply to gooberman-hill:

I think the answer is just to try as many many shoes as you can on in order to find a pair that best fits your heel shape. Be careful with the Achilles in the meantime! Sounds like you should stop wearing your current shoes immediately. You might need to let any sensitivity settle down as well before you can start trying new shoes on as everything might feel a bit aggrevating. 

In reply to gooberman-hill:

Mythos might work for your feet, the lacing system mean that the tension round the heel is adjustable and they are low cut.

They might not be technical enough for the grades you aspire to though.