/ First winter boot

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
evanofthefell - on 08 Nov 2012
Any advice for my first winter mountaineering boot? Would like to start with mountains days, some easy ridges and gullies, and perhaps progress to more technical stuff (but probably not for some time!). Do I need B3s, or will B2s serve the purpose?

Any advice appreciated.
lithos on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell:

walking in B3 is not (as) comfy, something like a scarpa manta is ideal
as its a great winter boot (if it fits)
evanofthefell - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to lithos: Great, these are B2s aren't they? So Mantas are suitable for the activities I'm talking about eh? When would be the time to consider B3s in the UK? Only when getting on steep ice stuff?
AdCo82 on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell: you'll be surprised how hard you can climb in a pair of b2's.

If you are just starting out you'll get years of use from a b2.

Yes the Manta's are great boots, I had some for years, but try lots on to see which fit. It's always good to go to a decent outdoor shop and get your feet properly measured and have the boots fitted.

Boulderdash86 on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell: I was in your position and my first boot were some Lowa Super Camps - all leather jobbies which were C1 compatable - after a few seasons I have now splashed out on a Pair of Scarpa Mont Blancs (after trying on so many different types over a 8 month period) - reason is I can always work up and a decent pair of winter boots will last me.
You can usually pick up some decent boots just after Xmas if you know what boot fits you - try on many and keep an eye out on here and a well known auction site. Happy hunting

P.S Also looking at doing Mont Blanc next year so that was another reason for buying B3s. But like everyone said its what you are going to do that the main reason.

Hope this helps
mrchewy - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell: I wouldn't get too hooked up on B2 or B3 - if the B3 boots have a decent rocker sole, they'll be fine for walking and there's boots out there that should really be classed as B2.5 as well.
Try every pair of boots on that you can, with an open mind, and get what fits regardless of cost or whether they're B2/3. I came out of a shop with B3 Asolos for about 180 notes and spent 2 weeks solid in them (no other footwear) without a blister or a complaint. I 'really' wanted La Sportivas but listened to my feet, with no regrets so far.
I've done easy ridges and gullies up to Grade II in bendy B0 boots with G10s, just getting out there is the most important thing.
lithos on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell:

yes they are suitable, Ive climbed a step ice in scarpa SLs and bendy cramps (b1/c1), it aint great but possible. If you get bitten by the bug then steep ice (and foreren ice rjukan , cogne etc) would be a good reason to go b3.

also depends on your feet, a manta in small size (eg 5 or 6) is stiffer than a size 12)

try loads on a - i piked a manta as an exemplar not as the only option, all the big names do good boots that would suit.
fairweatherclimber - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell:

I think the sweet spot is somewhere between B2 and B3 - i.e. either a lightweight B3 or a heavy weight B2. You can do almost anything in a boot like that - from UK scrambling to easier ice climbs and mountaineering.

I have a pair of Scarpa Triolet GTX which fit the bill; you see loads of them in the Alps. Not sure they still make them - Zamberlan Expert Pro GTX looks simlarly specced though maybe slightly beefier.

I also have some La Sportiva Nepal Pros for ice or very cold environments. Also some Trango S Evos at the other end of the spectrum.
MJH - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell: If you need one pair of boots for everything then I don't see the point of B2s, just find some comfy and preferably light B3s.

Some La Sportivas (Nepals/Trangos) fit me very well and are as comfy as less stiff boots (Mantas) I had previously. Equally I have had some very uncomfortable B3s!

If you are like most of us then you will start on easier winter ground and soon progress on to steeper stuff where you may find the disadvantages of not having a stiff enough boot become more important. However if you only intend to stick to easy stuff then B1 or B2 boots will be fine.

Fit and comfort is more important than anything else.
UKC Forums - on 08 Nov 2012
This thread was started in the STARTING OUT forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

Climbing Gear - Post all your climbing gear-related questions here. You know how you love comparing Friends with Camalots!

More Forum descriptions -
CurlyStevo - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to MJH:
+1 go straight for a comfy B3 boot. Modern B3 boots seems to be getting more flexible for comfortable walking whilst still retaining enough stiffness in the right areas for snow travel and C3 crampons. Scarpa boots are great in this regard. I have freneys which are pretty flexible and comfortable for walking in despite being B3. I figured that scarpa may make the next generation stiffer but if anything the jorasses is more flexible than the freney.

I have a friend who started on Mantas and has not really ever been able to justify splashing out on the crampons he really wants as it also means upgrading his boots, a purchase he now regrets.
matejn - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell: If I was looking for that type of shoes I would surely take this pair into consideration.
Call-Me-Bryce - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to matejn:

I love the fit of these!
matejn - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to Call-Me-Bryce: If they are anything like Dynafit TLT5, than they must be really good.
Martin Bennett - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell:

Hi. An unashamed sales pitch - if you happen to want a size 43 I have a pair of Scarpa Freney XT GTX to sell. They're almost as new, having been used for only one week icefall climbing in Italy and one winter route in the Lakes.

Reputed to be the perfect "all day - all mountain" boot designed for guides to wear all day every day.

The ideal B two and a half compromise. That's why I bought 'em but unfortunately I couldn't get a 42.5 so took a chance on the 43 and am now regretting it.

Let me know if they might be of interest. Cheers. Martin
Caralynh - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell:

I've always used B2 boots (Salomon) and the same boots for about 6 years now. OK, so I don't do technical stuff, and am looking at grade III max, but I've worn them to well over 4000m with no problems.
At the moment I'm debating whether they'll be OK for a trip to 6000m and thinking probably not, but limited by insulation rather than rigidity. They are much, much warmer than Mantas though (I tried both when buying).
woodybenwood - on 09 Nov 2012
In reply to evanofthefell: i jumpe into my first winter boot about 4 years ago now and i jumped straight into a pair of la sportiva nepal xtremes and i was absolutly fine, i find the are confortble for both the approach and for the climb aswell although it all depends, on the sape of your foot an th way in hich you walk etc maybe i was just lucky.
sorry about the rap writing, hard to pull of in a lecture.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.