UKC

For a dedicated sport climbing harness you will want something light, comfortable and fairly simple. In this group test the UKC team go through some of the best lightweight sport harnesses on offer.

Read more

In reply to UKC Gear:

Hey UKC-Team,

thanks for all the gear reviews you make. It shows a good variety of products of a certain type. However, I would appreciate if the reviews were a little more objective. Not that it makes the impression, that you favor a product or brand, but for example in this review it would be like comparing cars from small car, over a race car to an SUV and then argueing about that this car is really expensive which is why we chose the small car... Your are comparing apples with pears here. Also stuff like breathability or robustness are judged fairly subjective it makes the impression. As a consumer, I would be for example also interested in the technology of the harnesses. What makes a comfortable harness comfortable and a breathable harness breathable. Sorry for the honest feedback.

JT

In reply to jannick92:

This is a review, hence by it's very nature it is subjective. If you want to know more about the technology there's a plethora of information out there already, published by each of the individual brands. 

From my own experience wearing countless harnesses all of the techno-jargon used by brands means absolutely nothing when you actually put it on + use it, hence why we don't say a great deal about it. How it feels/performs in use is of far more interest to the end user than whether or not it uses WarpTech Extreme Hypermould fabric, and how that particular material/construction does or doesn't differ from its competitors.

When it comes to 'what makes a harness comfortable and what makes a harness breathable', my suggestion is to do exactly what we did: take 11 harnesses, get a variety of people to use them over a length of time, share opinions and experiences, and collate the feedback. This is impossible to do objectively, simply because not even the brands know an exact formula as to what makes a comfortable harness - hence why there's so many variations out there. Each brand thinks they've got the answer, yet each is different, and some - lest we forget - are crap!

When it comes to apples and pears, this is probably one of the most focussed product reviews we've ever written, solely focussing on lightweight sport climbing harnesses. Were we to have thrown a big wall harness into the mix, or something better suited towards alpine climbing, I might agree, but we don't. Yes, we've got a few Granny Smiths, Coxs, Gala, Pink Ladies, but pears - no...

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Wow, sorry. It was just a feedback of an impression that I got. I do enjoy reading the articles and it is clear to me that this will never be a scientific work. I just expressed a wish for some systematic information backing up some subjective claims. And I stay with my main argument: I don't see a clustering parameter other than "sport climbing" harnesses which is a pretty difficult to define field. But I accept that this is your pears. The price range from 47 to 140 pounds or the weight range from 250g to 420g further does not allow to see a very common category when most of the mentioned brands would have models that fall in a similar category however you would define one (00g, <100 punds,...). Please take it as a feedback of a reader or let me know if this is the wrong spot to put this and where to submit this in the future if wanted at all. Thats all I have to say

In reply to jannick92:

No need to apologise, I'm just trying to address the reasoning behind our approach - no offence was taken or intended.

It may be difficult to define, but given that there's an 1,000 word introduction explaining what exactly a sport climbing harness is - and why you might wish to use one - I'd say we've gone to great lengths to provide clarity on the matter.

When it comes to the range in price/weight, I'm not really sure what you're getting at. Within any given group test there are variations in price + weight. Some cost more, some cost less; some weigh more, some weigh less. These are undoubtedly factors that influence people's decision making process, with some people wishing to work within a modest budget whilst others willing to spent top dollar to get the lightest model. 

Here's the right place, and we welcome the feedback, but we also welcome the right to reply

In reply to jannick92:

Further to Rob's comments, I think you might be after a more distinct database approach where we have fields for attributes like weight, price, size, etc. This would then enable sorting, filtering and grouping. Correct me if I am wrong if that isn't what you meant.

We have tried this in the past but the number and variation of fields in the system across all gear made it unworkable. Each small category of gear needed a load of new fields adding -  breaking strain, different size ranges, rubber type, fixed or adjustable leg loops, axe length, single, twin or half rope, lace-up or velcro, .....  you get the impression. 

There might be something in this in the future but it would be an immense amount of work to set up and we are still fundamentally a climbing site and not a dedicated gear review site. It isn't something that we would prioritise especially since our current group tests do amazingly well for views and general reception.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Just a quickie re the Sitta. 
That pesky divider on the front gear loop....... Is it possible and easy to remove it?

Ta. 

In reply to UKC Gear:

The layout is coming out a bit janky for me on mobile:

https://imgur.com/a/QsrVP3r

(Nokia 6, Chrome browser, Android 8.1.0)

Edit: Tested on Firefox mobile with similar issues

In reply to mike reed:

Yes, it's on the more substantial front gear loop. I had considered removing it, and may yet do so, but haven't actually tried. Realistically it would require you to get somewhat physical (i.e. scissors + stanley knife) and whilst I doubt it would be hard, it would  undoubtedly invalidate the warranty.

I'm unsure as to whether I've over egged just how annoying it was within the review, but it's certainly one of those features that doesn't really add anything, solving a problem that wasn't really there, and actually getting in the way more often than not. Maybe it'd be of more use whilst trad/alpine climbing, but that's not what we were reviewing, so I understandably tried to shy away from that area of analysis.

For what it's worth, I really liked the Sitta and it will undoubtedly become my 'go to' sport climbing harness. When it comes to innovation + construction I would argue that it is the 'Best in Test', but was out voted - quite reasonably - because of the price, plus the fact that it isn't that much lighter than the model that costs a third of the price. 

In reply to UKC Gear:

Why no Petzl Hirundos? Are they no longer being made? Very popular among sport climbers 

In reply to Luke90:

Looks similar on my phone in portrait but displays right in landscape 

In reply to ericinbristol:

I have one and have used one for the last 6 years. The sita wasn't out when I bought my first petzl harness, even when I bought a new one recently I didn't see the point in spending double the price for the sita over the hirundos.

In reply to UKC Gear:

According to what I have found out over the last few weeks on this forum, everyone uses simond gear from decathlon. So why haven't you reviewed any of their harnesses? You could buy three harnesses from decathlon for the price of one petzl sita and still have money left over.

In reply to 88Dan:another very happy Hirundos user - I like the look of the Edelrid

In reply to wbo:

I like the Beal too

In reply to 88Dan:

Dan and Rob keep explaining this - UKC asks the companies that advertise on the site, and thus allow us lot to use it for free, first when it comes to put forwarding products for reviews.

I do notice that Simond are now making a pretty light harness for climbers (previously they only did their basic one - I have one for my kids to use, it's fine and very good value, but not super refined). The new one looks great for 40 quid, but its good to see in this review that their is a Climbing Technology model for only a little bit more that was very well like.

Most of the harnesses we buy come out of the same factories in the Czech Republic anyway! Really the companies just come up with the designs before handing them over to the Czech sewing masters to actually produce.

In reply to TobyA:

Don't say anything bad about simond gear, or mention other brands of gear you like or prefer instead. This lot will be all over you like a cheap suit.