UKC

/ reslinging hexes

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maxsmith - on 11 Apr 2018

Hi all the stitched slings on my green, red, yellow and blue WC rockcentrics are starting to fur up significantly (strangely the green way more than the others despite similar wear on the metal of all four hexes). I would be uneasy about using a sling in a similar condition so I'm planning to resling them all with the 5.5mm dyneema cord sold by Needlesports.

I understand that it is possible to fit a triple fisherman's knot inside the larger hexes (maybe not the green). But my concern is this would prevent the dyneema cord from 'rotating', meaning the cord would always wear at the same points (where it attaches to crab and at the holes in the hexes). By tying the knot in the 'open' part of the hex sling I would be able to move it occasionally and get even wear. But knot could then be annoying when clipping.

Can anyone who has reslung their hexes in this way advise on best practice? 

PS. I do not want to throw my hexes in the bin and buy cams but thanks in advance for the advice

 

 
Ex Poster 666 on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

I always used to re-sling my hexes etc with the biggest nylon rope/cord, that would fit, with a double fisherman's knot on the side.
Never had any problems.

Martin Bennett - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

Used hexes for many years before you could buy 'em with ready made sewn slings. It never occurred to us the knot was a hindrance. Try them and I think you'll agree.

 

Big Lee - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to Lusk:

I'm in the same situation with my WC hexes. Been a bit wary about replacing with cord. I've had 3-4mm cord tear on me when I fell on my axes years back with barely any slack in the system and no additional load beyond my bodyweight. It seemed due to general degradation from a few damp winters. Thicker cord I know would be much stronger but it's difficult to know whether the rating would increase/decrease and how it would change with time compared to dyneema. The weight saving of the DMMs combined with the fact that they will re-sling them is encouraging me to switch to the DMMs. My hexes are twelve years old after all, so they've had a good life!

 

 

 

 

vscott - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

As you suggest, knotting inside the hex makes a neater arrangement. Personally, I use nylon tape (check strength rating) tied with a tape knot (re-threaded overhand) which I find neater and cheaper than dyneema cord, and being smaller the tape knot can be fitted inside small hexes. Not seen much wear to the tape around the holes, which on rockcentrics are slightly bevelled. 

Prof. Outdoors on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

Maybe worth trying Edelrid tech web.

Dyneena core covered in nylon.

I have tied tape knots on mine. Unfortunately not tested due to unrelated health reasons.

https://www.climbers-shop.com/9811954/products/edelrid-12mm-tech-web.aspx

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/rethreading_hex__cams_with_elderid_tech_web-649228

Good luck

 

 

maxsmith - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

Thanks for all replies, for me it's a toss up between 5.5mm dyneema or edelrid techweb. I've sent a message to the guy who previously posted about the techweb so will see how he responds. 

There doesn't seem to be any consensus re knot position, so i'll probably hide within the hexes. Thanks again.

gravy - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

Remember that you can simply redo if you get any wear with little cost or effort so don't fret about putting the knot in the hex.

maxsmith - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to gravy:

Fair point, thanks gravy. I might stitch down the tails of the tape knot (if i go for tech web), are people doing this by hand or with a sewing machine?

Post edited at 09:28
Tom Ripley - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

I reslung my Rockcentrics with 5.5mm Dyneema cord. I didn’t bother tying the knot inside the hexes (the tripple fisherman is quite a long knot and I think you’d struggle to fit it inside the green, red and gold hex.

I don’t find the knot gets in the way and you can butt it up against the hex, allowing a bit more reach for overhead placements. 

In short: if I was realigning them again I’d do exactly the same again.

Big Lee: I'd not worry about the strength of the Dyneema cord and if I were you I’d resling your existing hexes, rather than buying torque nuts with their annoying double sling. 

HTH

 

 

 

 

Ex Poster 666 on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to Big Lee:

>  I've had 3-4mm cord tear on me when I fell on my axes years back with barely any slack in the system and no additional load beyond my bodyweight.

Good axe placement then?!

 

maxsmith - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to Tom Ripley:

thanks for advice TRip, i'll keep knot outside...couple of questions:

did you find the 1.1m length of 5.5 dyneema suggested by needlesports a good length (it seems a bit long to me)?

should I bother trying out the edelrid tech web with tape knot or would you recommend sticking to cord?

thanks

Post edited at 13:35
jkarran - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

I'd be surprised if you can get a triple fisherman's inside most but if you can that's a neat solution. I wouldn't worry about wear unless you're aiding on them or redpointing so they see loads of falls or load cycles. I'm guessing most of the to be retired slings have never even held a fall.

jk

brianjcooper on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

> There doesn't seem to be any consensus re knot position, so i'll probably hide within the hexes. Thanks again.

I've rethreaded my old hexes over the years, but with nylon rope.

The reason I wouldn't place the knot inside the hex is because it stops you using

it as an emergency sling if you can't slide the hex down the rope. 

 

 

 

 

oldie - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to brianjcooper:

Only previously used hexes threading with accessory cord as strong (thick) as possible using double fisherman's: so knots were quite bulky and could interfere with placement and possibly also with camming action if not distant from nut.

Never considered putting dyneema cord inside hex but there are two theoretical possibilities: between "top and bottom" holes and between the two holes on one facet (probably too close). 

In former case, which I assume people use, surely  the rope could be still be slid up on the unknotted side for use as a sling.

I now use Torque nuts which are still on their original doubled sling though, as others have said, this has both pros and cons if it needs adjusting en route.

deepsoup - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to brianjcooper:

> The reason I wouldn't place the knot inside the hex is because it stops you using it as an emergency sling if you can't slide the hex down the rope. 

It shouldn't do - the knot closes the rope into a loop and is only on one side, so there's nothing to stop you pulling slack through the hex from the other side.

PaulJepson - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

Does anyone have any thoughts on the weight difference re: reslung WC hexes? I've had Camp hexes on cord before and they were a bloody ton heavier than my WC ones on Dynema, but I'm not sure if that was because of the cord or the actual hex.

Tom Ripley - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith: 

The tripple fisherman’s uses a surprisingly large amount of cord to knot. 1.1m gives a length similar to the sewn sling on the Rockcentrics.

I think I reslung mine with 1 metre length, which I prefer as it is a little shorter (similar to a Torque nut when the sling isn’t extended).

I like the way the Dyneema cord handles (I prefer it to the slings they come with) so would stick with that option, rather than trying tech web.

Top tip: Rather than buying 4m of cord and cutting it yourself I would buy 4 metre long lengths, as it is quite tricky to cut and the shop will do a better job. Needle Sports will do this with an online order. 

HTH

 

 

 

Martin Hore - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to Tom Ripley:

Yep, Needlesports cut mine while I waited. They took a great deal of care - there's a knack with Dyneema cord that I wouldn't have sussed out myself. 

I'm pleased with the result - used them most of last summer with no problems. I've tied them with the knots outside the hexes.

Martin

maxsmith - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

I'll go with four 1m lengths of the 5.5mm dyneema, knots outside. Thanks for collective wisdom

jkarran - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to PaulJepson:

> Does anyone have any thoughts on the weight difference re: reslung WC hexes? I've had Camp hexes on cord before and they were a bloody ton heavier than my WC ones on Dynema, but I'm not sure if that was because of the cord or the actual hex.

IIRC the walls of the Camp hexes are roughly 1/3 thicker than modern versions.

jk

brianjcooper on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to deepsoup:

> It shouldn't do - the knot closes the rope into a loop and is only on one side, so there's nothing to stop you pulling slack through the hex from the other side.

Damn! Didn't see that.   So used to pulling both ends, which is slightly easier I guess. 


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