UKC

La Sportiva Nepal Extreme

Scarpa Cumbre

Scarpa Freney XTs

Scarpa New Vega

or another boot?

For Scottish winter climbing up to grade IVs. Prefer something light and warm (I get cold toes so warm boots would be good). Budget (ha ha) around £300.

In reply to jacobfinn:

Whichever one fits the best - I had Cumbres which were so comfortable, but for some reason the lining in the heel wore out far too early. I now have Nepal Extremes which aren't nearly so comfortable and wear my heels out far too early. Go figure.

In reply to jacobfinn: at the risk of repeating whats been said - the ones that fit you the best. try many on. most shops will let you take them home try around the house. ok, its not the mountains but it will allow you to try them on for an extended period without the financial commitment

In reply to higherclimbingwales: I know that each person's experience will be different from my own but I'm interested in their specific impressions - things like the heel lining wearing out, being cold or too hot.

I've tried on a pair of Nepal Extremes in a shop and they were comfy compared to the Mantas I've currently got.

In reply to jacobfinn:

My Nepal's are 13 years old and have been re-soled once.

I'd say that was quite good value.

In reply to jacobfinn: I have been struggling with the Scarpa Cumbres for a few years . Gonna change them to the Freney XT

Zamberlan....
4050 Peak GT RR (light and simaller to Freney XT)
4041 Expert Pro GT RR (simaller to Cumbre)
3000 Paine/4000 Eiger (built in gaiter)

In reply to jacobfinn: Cumbres are nice and warm, also very comfy, for me anyway.

In reply to jacobfinn:

The Freney and Cumbre are being replaced for the coming season by the Jorasses and the Mont Blanc. Similar in many ways in that one is light and techy, the other is warm and a bit heavier.
Both are less asymetric than the previous versions....this is a good thing! Freneys were excelletn to climb in, less good to walk in esp. with crampons.
The Mont Blanc would be my first suggestion based on your requirements and the fact that you fit Mantas. If you are running a G12 (or similar) on your Mantas then they would also work fine on the Mont Blancs.

Bruce

In reply to Hay: When are the Mont Blancs going to be in stock?

In reply to jacobfinn:
Mont Blanc is actually available now, give me a shout when your about.

Bruce

In reply to jacobfinn: I have a pair of Freney's and i don't find them warm enough for scottish winter (have some friends with the same opinion too), i have tried the Mont Blanc on and it was a lot more comfortable than my current boots and i believe it be that much warmer too.

I personally would recommend either the Mont Blanc, Phantom Guide or Nepal Evo

In reply to Hay: Will do. Orange and Black boots = good. Do they come with sunglasses tho? V bright.

In reply to jacobfinn:

There are plenty of makes other than Scarpa, I like Gronell:

http://www.walkhigh.co.uk/acatalog/Mountaineering-boots-gronell-kayland.htm...

In reply to jacobfinn: I'd second what has been said above - fit and not limiting yourself to LS or Scarpa. I've got AKU Spiders and love them as they are warm (I get cold feet), they are really light and they fitted the best of everything I tried. They might not last as long as a full leather boot, but I can wear them for a typical long day in Scotland/the Alps and not notice my feet all day. Having said that I've had them a year and they aren't showing any wear inside or out.

Millet Alpinist.

In reply to jacobfinn: Try Zamberlan Expert Pro, or the Boreal Khangri, if you have wide feet.

In reply to scottramsay020:

I struggled with the Cumbres as well, kept getting blisters etc... I changed to Meindl...

Euge

In reply to jacobfinn: Impossible to answer. I found Scarpa very uncomfortable but love my Sportiva Nepal Extremes so much I'm on my second pair. Others have the opposite experience. Apart from the comfort I went for the Sportiva because at the time all of the guides seemed to be wearing them so I took this to be a good indication of their quality. I think there are lighter boots available now though.

Al

In reply to jacobfinn: I'm a big fan of the La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo boots (not that I climb anything that could be called 'extreme')
- http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1782

In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:

I love my pair as well but they aren't warm. They are about as warm as a freney I reckon. That's why I ended up getting a pair of scarpa omegas as well, that and that the two pairs of boots came to £200 together

In reply to jacobfinn:

you don't need a B3 for Scottish grade IV! get a B2, it will be lighter and easier to walk in. scottish winter is mostly trudging remember !

In reply to franksnb: ...wassallthis about B2s causing metal fatigue in crampons due to flex? I came across a guiding company in the Alps which wouldn't rent B2s for this reason - it's something I've heard of before but never actually come across any failures which can be attributed to this factor - but maybe the hire companies have greater experience...

In reply to jacobfinn:


Scarpa Phantom Guide is a pretty nice boot. Probably warmer than any of the others on your list except the Vega. Scarpa Omega is another warm, light boot that climbs well.

Hiiii...

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In reply to jacobfinn: Try the Berghaus Kibo on, unbeatable at the price, and warm too.

In reply to Montgomery:

Yeah Ugg shoes good call.

In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:

Warmth

Hmm I also get cold feet and have some of these which I used doing some courses on Mt Ruapehu in NZ this winter. While it was seldom below -5C and sometimes above freezing my feet still froze - but they can in plastics with supergaiters !! Just my 2 cents but for me in NZ they will be a summer boot. Good fit though