UKC

This looks a bit of a treat, walking across remote to Britain's remotest pub. Unfortunately they picked the wettest summer.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m002255h/our-lives-series-8-10-the-jo...

They tackle 3 Munros before dropping down into the village of Inverie.  I've been across here a number of times, but by far the best approach is to park the car in Fort William, and take the train to Mallaig, then cross by small boat to Inverie. No doubt they will toast their arrival at the Old Forge. Not sure if the bunkhouse is still operating, but sure is better than camping in these parts. Think rain and midges!

Maybe worth watching……….with the sound off!

Watched this the other day. They don't so much "tackle" the Munros but definitely get the full experience. And there's enough B-roll to show you what it could have looked like. 

I was trying to work out their route... They stay in a bothy on the 2nd night but that doesn't seem to make for a very even split looking at the map. Must be what they did though.

Also looks like there's an alternative, possibly shorter, way in from the North. Is that viable?

Yes there is a really good track over the Mam Barisdale. It's a lovely walk past a large lochan, along with large dragonflies that accompanied me on my walk. The approach from the end of Loch Arcaig is quite tedious, but better over the 3 Munros. I was informed that the big modern Lodge belonged to Madonna.

From Kinlochhourn to Barrisdale.

Btw I do wish this nonsense description of Knoydart as "Scotland's last wilderness" would be dispensed with.

From a brief skim-watch I couldn't tell if they went over any hills or 'just' between them. Either way it's a gnarly place to walk compared to most hill areas.

Coming in from Glenfinnan you'd prob walk over to the head of Loch Arkaig (where you could also drive to, albeit you'd have a faff retrieving the car); Glen Dessarry to the head of Loch Nevis; Mam Meadail over to Inverie.

You'd pass two bothies, A'Chuil bothy a reasonable 18km+/- from Glenfinnan, then from there it's a short but very rugged/wet through-route to Sourlies bothy over on Loch Nevis. From there it's a respectable up-and-over to Inverie. I didn't see a bothy exterior shot so I don't know which of those they stayed in.

Three days is generous for that route unless you're adding a load of hills. But still, they're not easy strolling days. Pretty crappy looking weather too, never helps.

The northern route to Inverie from the Kinloch Hourn road-end may be marginally shorter. It's a toss-up which stage would be tougher, the up/down/wet stretch along Loch Hourn (stunning, but not easy) or the trudge from Glen Dessary through to Sourlies (boggy, rough, very wild-feeling); neither is a stroll.    

You could also get a boat from Arnisdale to Barrisdale and nip over the Mam Barrisdale to Inverie in a quick half day. But that'd be cheating. 

All routes bar Glenfinnan have a logistical issue - you can only get to them by car, and so you'd have to return to pick it up. If you start at Glenfinnan (train) then you can get the boat from Inverie to Mallaig (train) so the whole thing is public transport-accessible via the railway and you can do it as a simpler linear walk.

*sound-off is tempting, why do programmes about the Highlands always seem to need the twiddly folksy muzak? (ducks for cover)

Couldn't agree more, it's a dreadful cliche and patently untrue. How many wildernesses have a village and a pub? The 'wild' bit is the hills on the way there, which are more awkward than most and have a remote feel but are really no wilder than several other Highland areas. And none are a 'wilderness' in the sense of being untouched/natural/entirely unpopulated (then where is in the world, these days?)

Could the even worse pseudo proper noun "The Great Wilderness" thing for Letterewe/Fisherfield also be dropped once and for all then please?

Did a similar Munro raid from Glenfinnan some years ago, bagging Thuilm and nan Coireachan then dropping down to Oban bothy at the head of Loch Morar (no monster seen). Getting round to Kinlochmorar was a bit tricky but the pass over to Glen Dessary was easy enough and very wild. Once we got through the boggy forest and onto the track to Sourlies it was plain sailing as was the next day over the Mam to Inverie (side trip to bag Buidhe). The biggest problem - not midges, ticks in massive numbers!

Thanks for that. There's a lot a map can't tell you...

I think the fireplace looks like the one in the Google photos of the Oban bothy, which is why I was scratching my head a bit. They can't have been at the Oban one on night 2, surely. 

Edit: Maybe it was just some B-roll of fire in bothy. 

From my armchair I'm wondering why not walk along loch quoich through Gleanncosaidh following what looks like a track all the way. I'm guessing the cartographers must be taking some liberties with the dirt road line there...

Since you asked...

"The US National Wilderness Preservation System includes 806 wilderness areas protecting 111,889,002 acres (174,826.566 sq mi; 452,798.73 km2) of federal land as of 2023."

"Wilderness areas do not allow motorized or mechanical equipment, including bicycles, hang-gliders, wagons, chainsaws, and game carts.  Although camping and fishing are allowed with proper permits, no roads or buildings are constructed, and no logging or mining, in compliance with the 1964 Wilderness Act."

Well I guess you could, I'd not thought of that. Bits of old dam access road come and go along the shore of Loch Cuaich (new spelling on maps, which I guess is the correct Gaelic) but it's not the most enjoyable walking. I've not been up that glen much beyond the loch. Kinloch Hourn is closer to Barrisdale than any point on the Cuaich-shore road. And the walk along (or mostly above) the shore of Loch Hourn is one of the best in Scotland 

Well I guess they'll mostly be a lot wilder than Knoydart! 

Well it's definitely untouched and wilderness by comparison to probably most TV viewers expectations. Where "Doing Mount Snowdon" by Llanberis path for the insta summit photo, is the usual expectation of high adventure. Don't forget the producers don't necessarily pitch these programs at the UKC/UKH forums readership.

Go lose yourself in SW Tasmania for a few days/weeks/months ...

I'd love to

They have shitloads of signs reminding you of what you can't do in them though. They love a good sign. I guess signs mustn't count, because theres plenty of them. 

It was definitely Sourlies. I'm virtually certain the route they took was from Glenfinnan through the bealach between Streap and Sgurr Thuilm to the bottom of Glen Pean near Loch Arkaig (the forestry bit) then through Glen Dessary (lochan west of high point recognisable) to Sourlies, them Mam Meadhail to Inverie. There are obviously shorter routes from Loch Arkaig and Kinloch Hourn, but you can't get the train back.

Really? I think it is a bit of a tedious up and down flog. Last time I went to Ladhar Bheinn I kayaked in and out to Barrisdale and it was such a pleasure to avoid that walk and effortlessly overtake walkers (and a yaght).

Definitely.

Kayaking in is really good either from Kinlochourn or Mallaig. Makes a proper adventure of it. Walking in over the tops is another great way of doing it. 

The programme juggled up the locations along the walk jumping back to the forestry in Glen Dessary after being up on the Mam na Cioch Airde. 

Once the main way in was from Kinlochhourn thanks to the postbus but now it's Glenfinnan as the public transport trailhead, although I have gone in from Lochailort via Oban (derelict back then) and the pass behind Kinlochmorar.

Horrible weather - well done!

Bit much for a return trip in a single day, but if you got the planning right kayaking in to Barrisdale from Kyleakin would be nice, with a free ride on the tidal conveyor belt through Kyle Rhea.  (Bit much to make the return trip on the same day though probably.)

I haven't done that, but I had a very pleasant day paddling from Armadale up to Kyleakin with a group a few years ago.  The Sandaig Islands are a delightful spot to stop for some lunch and a brew.

What's the situation like for parking and launching in Glenelg, does anyone know?

Parking is not usually fine in Glenelg and you are near the sea, so I wouldn't have thought launching would be a problem.

I guess you meant parking is usually fine (not usually a problem)?  Assuming so, I think that might be a good option for me some time as an alternative to either Kinloch Hourn or Mallaig, ta.

Yes, sorry!

Though I don't think I've parked overnight there. 

I mostly agree with you on the terrain, but in fine weather the views are wonderful.

(Arriving at the estate bothy at Barrisdale years ago to find that the fireplace had been boarded-up was a bit disappointing. Rather a cold dispiriting place.)

Duly noted, ta.  I'd certainly be away for two days, possibly three, so obviously that would make it all the more important to park considerately and maybe think about leaving a note or something.

For the indolent (holds his hands up), you can get taken across Loch Hourn to Barrisdale and picked up by boat from Arnisdale, cost was £70 which is a bargain if shared between four. Ladhar Bheinn by Coire Dhorcaill is a stunner.

Oops! I was thinking about parking at Arnisdale/ Corran. Not sure about Glenelg.

In the past I've used the boat from Mallaig to Inverie, and I've walked into Barrisdale from Kinloch Hourn. By far my most memorable visit was going to Barrisdale "the easy way" via the boat from Arnisdale with a bunch of mates for a weekend. It was around Easter time 20 odd years ago. This approach allowed the addition of some extra luxuries to be taken. Returning to the bothy from my tent with my second "spare" bottle of whisky when rations began to dwindle went doon a treat with the box o toys. A nasty low pressure system brought high winds and late season snowfall right down to sea level. Our ascent of Ladhar Bheinn's NE ridge via Coire Dhorcail was a full on winter hoolie. High winds, fresh snow, blinding spindrift and poor visibility. Absolutely brilliant. Next day was touch and go if the boat could pick us up due to strong winds and a choppy sea. The boatman played a blinder in picking us up. The drive over the Bealach Ratagan was also a touch and go affair due to fresh snow. The drive over to Invergarry was no less spicy. Welcome to Springtime in the Scottish Heilans. 

That's how I got in to climb Ladhar Bheinn. The only problem was waiting in the wrong bay to meet up again with the boat. We suddenly realised our mistake and a mad scramble followed across a very rocky shoreline and just in time as he was about to sail away!

I think I'm convinced that if I ever take up munro-chasing I'm going to team up with someone else who wants to do it and has two sets of car keys...

Looks like a minimalist agenda of a pint at the old forge could be done in a (long) day by walking in from the North and getting the boat out if someone was up for doing the opposite.

When camping in Barrisdale one time, my wife and I walked up Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe, then down to Inverie for a pint, and finally back to Barrisdale. It didn't seem a long day at the time, and we enjoyed it.

I remember sitting at the pub in the afternoon, and watching dolphins catching bow waves on an incoming sailing boat.

Why not walk with them? Drop one car off at Mallaig, and then drive round past Loch Quoich, and walk to Barrisdale. Then do the Munros/Corbetts from the next day.

To minimise the man hours spent driving along pony tracks to position and retrieve cars.

From Barrisdale, sure. All the plan my trail .com sort of sites seem to indicate car to inverie is about 10 hours. So you could comfortably walk in and get there a pint and a bit before the last ferry out. 

The other way the limiting factor is that the pub only opens at midday, but with a late finish it still looks feasible.

For my wife’s 30th we stayed at the Doune lodges in Knoydart.

They pick you up in their boat from Mallaig and then can take you on day trips out. We sailed up Loch Hourne, watching dolphins from the boat, walked up Ladhar Bheinn and watched the sea eagles, back along Sgurr Coire Choinnichean and then picked up in Inverie Bay. Then watching otters in the bay eating a delicious home cooked meal.

Not cheap but one of the best trips I have had in Scotland.

I've seen otters eating fish but not seen them cooking yet

I somewhat understand what you are saying, but there could be an unequal time for doing the opposite route as each other, and communication may not be the easiest when in Knoydart. Navigation in cloud/rain/fog may be harder in one direction for instance.

Why does that matter?

Because you may be frustrated by waiting around, and the possibility of meeting up again not being that smooth.

Waiting for what??? I don't think you've followed...

You finish the walk, get into your own car and drive off into the sunset.

I'm no Jermiah Johnson... if there is a choice between "wilderness" with pub, or wilderness with thousands of grizzly bears, I know which way I'm going.

You've not met Yotam Otterlenghi I take it

Hamish Brown:  In reply to the idea that using two cars to do the South Shiel Ridge -

"That must be hard on the suspension"

Can't say I've ever seen any Grizzly bears in Knoydart, you have to go to Finland or Slovenia to see them. Or America they've got a few there.

Some years ago three of us left a car in Fort William and got a taxi to the Loch Cuaich/Quoich dam. The taxi company specialised in doing that kind of thing IIRC. We went over Gairich and camped high on the ridge just before Sgurr Mhor. The next day we went right along the ridge to Sgurr na Ciche and then to Sourlies, then to Knoydart the next day.

Nice. Sounds like an extended version of this, with the bonus of the pub at the end and a boat/train back?

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/articles/destinations/the_big_routes_knoydart...

We started in Edinburgh in the morning of day 1, so it must have been lunchtime early afternoon by the time we started walking. So we went over Gairich and then stopped to cook by the stream in the col between it and Sgurr an Fhaurain. We went over that as the shadows lengthened, and camped in the col between it and Sgurr Mor. We woke to a cloud inversion, went over Sgurr Mor and Sgurr Beag, and got water and (2nd) breakfast just off the col before the climb to Sgurr nan Coireachan. On to the end of the ridge at Sgurr na Ciche, and down to camp at Sourlies. A big day! Then we walked to Knoydart with a diversion over Meall Buidhe. 

The bonus wasn't just the pub and the ferry - we were meeting more folk from our mountaineering club who were staying in the hostel for the weekend so people brought us clean clothes and such. My memory is that we had wall-to-wall sunshine the whole trip, too!

Yes we walked in from Glenfinnan to the south last time, through to Glen Shiel. I'd love to kayak in...