UKC

Over the past week I've managed to hurt my shoulder and collateral ligament of a finger. Thankfully neither seem major, but I'm only 24! Surely I'm not supposed to fall apart at this age. I'm in dismay. Can anyone offer me some guidance? I've booked physio tomorrow and will definitely not climb for a few weeks at least.

Don't fret. Loads of people get injured at a young age. If anything you get more attuned to your body as you get older and learn when to hold back. Injury is part of any sport. On the plus side, young bodies heal much faster and much better! 

It just sounds like a run of bad luck which one can have, but having acquired elbow niggles through 'wanting to be good', I've realised that just being good enough to keep the interest level up is probably what makes climbing satisfying, where a certain amount of balance and technique and specialised strength is required. Stevie Haston posts on his blog in quite a thought provoking way about balancing getting stronger in different ways with getting to enjoy going climbing lots too, without being kept away through injury.

If you're enjoying your climbing, getting better at climbing more gradually than you might is no bad thing.  Resting for a few weeks is probably wise, and let your body get used to not resting again.

Follow the advice of the physios...

I think you're fine. 25 year old here:

• Two stitches above the same eyebrow. I can't remember the first one, I was about 3yo. The doctor was laughing out loud when he saw the second - he said "one more and you'll have an arrow". 
• 3 separate fractures:
  • arm once;
  • arm again in two different bones;
  • heel which I discovered only recently - still no clue when that happened.
• Cracked ribs.
• Partially torn ACL - 7 years later, it still hurts every now and then.
• Multiple sprains (with both ankles at once recently).

I am not hugely overweight (BMI of 24ish), would not consider having any conditions that would weaken my bones, soft tissues or skin. Just not the most careful, especially when sports are involved . But then I take injury as something inevitable - I dropped a tripod on my foot today, so I can get hurt even when at home. 

24 years old, don't worry about it kid. You have plenty of time to heal and plenty more injuries to come too. My right elbow is the only bit of me I haven't injured. 

Rest it properly don’t be tempted to use it too soon.  

totes not being a dick buuuuut tough love incoming.

snapping yo' snizzle up is a cost of doing business. Have it on the balance sheet. Expect it. Budget for it. Plan for it.

Never get wrapped up in it as a "woe is me" thing. True it's massively fekin annoying for 2nd an 3rd parties but more importantly it does you no good stuff whatsoever for you. Fix it move on.

Bonus round: ask the physio if his mum hoped he might become a real dr...... (eye contact reqd)

Give your body time to recover. Injuries will happen and getting good medical care and resting can do wonders

If you can lead HVS and climb 6c outside, there' a lot of adventuring to be had without needing to be stronger/better at climbing.

Do something else active instead, it’ll help you recover and strengthen other parts of your body.

As an aside is this why long walk ins to mountain crags are a good thing?

Cheers folks. After having learnt that it tends not to be as a severe (though can be very drawn out) injury as an A pulley tear, I'm more upbeat about it. Physio says I can still climb (easy) and shoulder is near pain free now. 

Guess I'll just have to work on my mountain leader instead (not so bad).

I can't help but laugh at this post.  Sorry,  but 24 yrs old and you think you're falling apart just because you've hurt your shoulder and got a damaged ligament in a finger???

You are not falling apart (yet).  Injuries are a part of life and quick to improve when you are young.    Wait until you're my age - then come back and tell us how you feel!!

Exactly.

In reply to rockface:

Have you ever had a serious(and I mean serious) illness; have you ever had a life threatening or life changing injury? If not you are NOT falling apart.

Self inflicted Injuries like yours are usually the result of trying too hard with bad form. Learn to listen to your body.

If you have a shoulder/arm/hand/finger  injury you can still go climbing on slabs, or climb one handed. You can still train the good arm and work on flexibility and mobility.

There's no problem so awful that you can't add some guilt to it and make it even worse

-Calvin (after a big dog knocked him down and stole Hobbes)

That's exactly what I wanted to hear! Thank you!

I have actually, but have been a picture of health since then. I've cared for people who have been crushed by boulders, obliterated in car crashes, etc. so I'm not devoid of perspective. I just wanted some reassurance from people who've had similar situation. 

At around your age, maybe a year or so older, I'd had shin splints, achillies tendonnitis - both from doing too much running too quickly.  I also had a tooth extracted.  Then I had a problem with a really painful knee injury after running my first and only marathon,. (experience is a really good teacher).  Then I also started canoeing.  This upset two major tendons in my hips due excessive rolling, and balancing the canoe as you balance using your hips.  I broke a couple of ribs as a result of a minor fall.  Then a bit later I broke a bone in my heel following a bit of solo climbing.  (there wasn't such a thing as bouldering in my twenties).  By now I'd had a well paid scaffolding work in the north sea so I didn't go to the doctors, and it was several years later I discovered what I'd done following another x-ray for something else I can no longer remember what.  That explains the limp/pain I had for a few weeks. 

I consider myself quite fit even though I have a grandson of your age!  I can out run him!!  I've done the C to C twice over the last two years and still knock about in the mountains, summer and winter.

So I'm glad I've reassured you.   Hopefully your body, if you take reasonable care of it will last until you no longer want to be active.

Good luck!    

Just use your other hand.