In reply to Mark Kemball:
I had the pleasure of living with Mark and Jan many years ago. At first I really didn't want to be living in the U.K. as we were coming from my first winter in Chamonix. But from that first day in there, I couldn't believe the beauty of the Peak District. Mark gave us a rack and Jody showed me around all the great grit crags. Although Mark was already dealing with Parkinson's, his love for all things climbing was so strong, he literally breathed climbing. Folks like Ken Wilson would often be at the house discussing climbing, as Mark worked tirelessly on the BMC.
I hadn't climbed trad much before then, and as I was going through the grades on grit Mark sat me down, drew a graph and explained that with trad climbing and mountaineering, the physical part of getting up the climb is only part of the game, mountain craft, and what to do if something goes wrong is just as important. A valuable lesson for a young kid.
One day at Frogatt Mark showed us Browns Eliminate, and forbid us to climb it after the death of his friend on it, however, being young and stupid, I had to do it. After doing it I told Jody but begged her not to tell Mark. Later that evening at the dinner table Jody said 'Guess what Andy did today?' I thought I was going to get the biggest telling off from him, but he was the complete opposite, he congratulated me, and wasn't cross at all. Thanks for that Mark.
Its been a long time since then, but I'd just like to say thanks to the Vallance family, and especially Mark for sharing the love of climbing, you've been a great inspiration, Rest In Peace.