UKC

justin critchlow has repeated a-t-g at the roaches he says the grade is e6 7a rather than e5 6c. (good for jiggy jiggy)

In reply to mark s:

deliverance, font 7c,

yeah right!

user profiles eh? you can beat 'em



laterzz

m@

In reply to m@ at home: i did not do the first ascent just saying what i have heard some say 7b+ some say 7c, so what!!!!!

In reply to mark s: E8 in two years, that's going some

In reply to mark s:
Against the grain(roaches) has now been repeated and E6 7a is now the grade and is close to being repeated again by andy turner. It is as hard as its neighbouring route Thing on a spring .a t g has lasted 15 years good effort nadin.

In reply to just:
Well done Justin. Only Mindbridge to go now eh?
Hasn't it lasted this long thanks to pebble(s) snapping? My mate has been trying it for the first 10 years and always swore it was easier moves than ToS.

mindbridge.
whats the history of this route, i no it hasnt been repeated but has anyone been on it. is it very hard or something. and how bold is it. any info would be helpful.

In reply to r simpson:
It was done by simon nadin in the 80's. It has had a lot of people on it but then there is still a lot who have not tried it. It is a wall with good gear and very sustained fingery climbing. It is easier than thing on a spring(its nieghbour) but is not as technical,and it has several hard moves unlike T O A S is just one hard move.It is hard but bottom end 7a and E for effort allthough it is bold after the crux but ony 6a climbing remains. It is wel worth the on sight as very safe on the crux.

And jon not sure about mindbridge yet but Kp nuts is next. hopefully it will b a nice christmas pezzy for me!

In reply to just:

Excellent Justin. I expect a full list and everything sorted out by the time I get back. Did I mention I was off to Cape Town on Friday? Perhaps I did.

The real contender, apart from Mindbridge and KP Nuts (and Just for Today?), is Sunday at Chapel. I have a feeling this is a little under-rated.

When you've ticked all these, I have a few down the Churnet for you to look at...

Against the grain.. .. looks safe

Here it is i found a few pics of it. looks ok.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/caff/news/index.html#item2025

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Twas a fine effort from JC, just thought I had best mention the quality of the route which noone seems to care about, only the grade! But yes, it is an excellent route, and worth everyone of its three stars. Lets get some more people on it, and see what they think!!!!

In reply to AndiT: on the uk.climbing website it talks of a 7a dyno on against the grain,well i never saw 1

In reply to justin: That is an awesome photo! Did Gus take it? Has a timeless quality to it, but maybe that 'cos Andi looks like a 60's throwback. Will the boy ever get a haircut?

In reply to AndiT: Looking good there Andi, still on for a trip to Oz in a year or so???

In reply to Chris Fryer: no i took it with andys camera

In reply to StuartM:
March 2003, I'll be there, ready to kick your sorry unfit butt!

In reply to r simpson:


mindbridge.
whats the history of this route, i no it hasnt been repeated but has anyone been on it. is it very hard or something. and how bold is it. any info would be helpful.


It is hard and very bold and sustained but it is possible to escape(via bridging the chimney) until the las 5 or 6 crux moves. done by nadin in the early 80's it has stood for a long time and is still in need of a second ascent.
It is a little green but isnt the whole of hencloud.If you wanted to do a hard route then i would go for master of reality E6 6c *** and is a stunning line and safeish too.
Be prepared as hencloud is hard and everthing is undergraded even the hvs's are mega!

In reply to AndiT: I'm sure after two weeks swinging around in Krabi this Xmas it won't quite as sorry and unfit as yours Andi!