UKC

As it is starting to warm up a bit, my motivation for attempting anything approaching difficult bouldering is on the wane so I thought I would try out some Sport Routes having never really done any outside.

I've done a bit of trad on and off and mainly solely bouldered for the last 4 years, so not expecting miracles!

I'm keen to get a list of stellar 7a-7b's to try out in N Wales/Clwyd area as thats the place I'm most likely to get to in the near future.

I'd prefer short and burly if possible!

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

Rich

In reply to Richard Hession: Geordie Warcry F7a - Slate

Night Glue F7a+/7b - LPT

In reply to Richard Hession:
Walking with Barrence, 7b*** at Dinbren, Clwyd. I failed miserably (a case of 'come on, you're almost at the crux') but my partner managed it eventually and enjoyed it.

In reply to Richard Hession:
Go to dinbren left wing and climb short burly sport routes to your hearts content..

In reply to Richard Hession: A man of your bouldering talents should be looking at 8a-8b, not 7a-7b!

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

Agree. If you can do Font 8a, then you'll be bored on the lower Sport 7's. You know that!

In reply to Richard Hession: i'll indulge you though if youre doing Font 8a im not sure that i should. as suggested, Dinbren is a great spot with some excellent 7s. all, from what ive done, are worthwhile but the standouts for me were:

Technicolour Yawn 7a+
Ice 7a+/b
Walking with Barrence 7b
I Punched Judy First 7b+
The Bandits 7b+

further afield your next best bet is Pen Trwyn where i dont think theres a bad route. the Mayfair Wall has some quality 7s:

Axle Attack 7a+
Mayfair 7a+
Bloodsports 7b

these are longer than the Dinbren stuff so might be an ideal way for you to gain some stamina if shorter stuff is your strong point? by the way, while the Dinbren stuff is short its all fairly sustained, either physically or technically or both.

downstairs at Lower Pen Trwyn theres some more really good face climbing 7s, quite technical in most cases. theres also some burlier stuff, including some 'soft' 8as. I've Been a Bad Bad Boy 7c is pure class and you might find it easy with your power but it is quite sustained.

as mentioned, Geordie War Cry 7a+ on slate is very, very good but again quite sustained. nearby is Whizz Bang 6c (and not easy) which i think some people hate but i thought was great: short, technical and really bouldery.

enjoy!

In reply to Jeff25:

I was thinking I should start off by keeping it reasonable and see if I can learn to climb with a rope and the distraction of clipping. My P.E. and cardio are pretty shocking beyond 8 moves!

Was thinking I could build endurance whilst on more amenable routes without the bore of working it indoors as all my current training is geared towards strength & power i.e. 4-5 moves on a board as well as fingerboarding, campussing and weights :S

p.s.

Cheers for the replies, I'm sure Andy will be psyched to take me to Dinbren for some hustling!

Definitely got to try Geordie War Cry too by the sound of it

Thanks for the suggestions

In reply to Richard Hession: All the above mentioned routes, plus these routes which are less well known about and/or a bit steeper and burlier than the usual Pen Trwyn face climbing.

Empire Crag (overlooking the top end of Llandudno):
Bodysnatchers 7a
Cradlesnatchers 6c

Pen Trwyn, Parisella's/Split Infinity area:
Tales of No Power 7a+
Bring Back Fred Gwynne 7a
Tomorrow People 7c

Llandulas Cave:
Pearl from the Shell 6c+
Mudjekeewis 7c - old bolts

One of the best sport routes I've done recently is the 7a (possibly 7a+) at Penmaen Head in Colwyn Bay. Worth 3 stars, brilliant interesting moves.

In reply to petejh: Oh and The Magic Flute on the Little Orme was rebolted by Jon R. this week - *** 7c overhanging tufa climbing.

In reply to petejh:

Sounds well worth a look.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

It's a date :p

In reply to andy farnell: Magic Flute is an amazing line Andy, get on it. And the Hole of Creation just left is a cool E3 too.

Rich, give me a ring and I'll pass on some ideas for you. You should have asked me last night and I could have bored you to death with recommendations.

In reply to Ben Farley: It's on the list next time I'm in the area. Other fish to fry this weekend though.

In reply to Rich: Get your self to the peak, get on the bouldery stuff at the Tor, it'll suit you perfectly.

Andy F

In reply to Richard Hession: Even being able to climb Font 8a you will still get spanked on your first visit to Dinbren! Grand Canynon at the gorge should be dry at the moment; big moves between good holds. You could seek out Gaskins' slightly esoteric bouldery 7c+ at Warton Upper if your up in South Lakes anytime soon.

In reply to Richard Hession:

I guess the choice is between Pen Trwyn and Clwyd. Both have many good routes in the grades you are looking at. If you go to Clwyd you will probably gravitate towards Dinbren which would be my recommendation anyway. Not only is it a nicer place to hang out than PT its probably more suited to a boulderer with most of the routes being short and steep and all over by half way (there'll also be less chance of you losing focus and wandering over to the cave for a 'quick warm up'!).

As for the routes at Dinbren the obvious ones are all good, not much to say other than Walking with Barrance is harder than I Punched Judy and probably less of a boulderer's cup of tea (WWB also used to need some wires but I don't think it does any more). Fire and Ice both good, the Bandits is ideal being two burly undercut moves followed by a short bit of easier crimping. If you are tall you should then get on El Rincon for an easy 8a tick (if you are short don't bother).

All that said Face Race, the Refrain, La Boheme and Night Glue are all better than anything at Dinbren and the last 2 are as good as any anywhere.

In reply to Richard Hession:Yeah no wires required on Walking With Barrence anymore. Its really good and one of my favourites there. I would say The Bandits is probably the best route there to utilise some bouldering power. I wouldn't say El Rincon is an easy 8a (it used to get 8a+) and which move on El Rincon is hard for the short? I think Broken Dreams may be awaiting a reascent since the decent edge you get from the grozzly undercut at the start was snapped off last year.

In reply to JM:

In fairness I shouldn't say that El Rincon is easy as I've not done it and my comment was based on the first obvious stretch you see on this video being the crux (it is for the short):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLj5eiySa8g&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fdoylosblog...

In reply to Tyler: Oh yeah fair point forgot about that move. Locking in on that edge lurching for that pocket would be hard for the very short. For some reason a lot of people assume El Rincon is easy but then struggle to actually get it done!

In reply to Richard Hession: There's pics of the Hole of Creation/Magic Flute cave here:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=237

Lots of great new sport routes in the slate quarries if you fancy some intense technicality, check the wiki:

http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/Graded+List

In reply to Richard Hession:

Dont forget Craig Arthur, it has some brilliant climbing above 7a

In reply to Richard Hession: Haha hession doing routes, what a punter.
He is also looking for somebody selling a harness as he doesnt own one.

In reply to Richard Hession:

Hi Richard

How about Castell Y Gwynt ? At the risk of immodesty Hidden Sign 7b is excellent and the route to the left of it Nouvelle Cuisine 7b+ should be similarly good if not better as it goes higher.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1006

In reply to Richard Hession:

Left Wing of Dinbren - check out the 7s, short routes should suit you`r powerful bouldering style.
If you find them ok go for Broken Dreams 7b+,I Punched Judy First 7b+, When Saturday Comes 7c, Elite Syncopations 8a.

LPT - not to be missed, longer routes but most are hard boulder problems usualy near the top !

In reply to Richard Hession:

Get yourself on the Pen Trwyn classics Rich, I think they are better really than most of the Clwyd routes. Get yourself out of the bloody cellar and build up your endurance on quality routes. You will also learn things about technique etc that will probably surprise you.
I would start with Axle attack (a few toughish moves with half decent rests) and work along..
Good luck...

In reply to JM: Pete Robbins has climbed this since the loss of the hold. The person who snapped the hold said to me it may be getting on for 7c now.

Another vote for the Clwyd crags, of which Dinbren probably has the best concentration of routes in the grades your after. Many have also been recently equiped/re-equiped.
The Wasp factory and Back in Black are also now fully equiped and should be on your tick list at 7b and 7b+
As already mentioned the routes tend to be burly and/or technical and can feel harder to on-sight than the given grade.

Also, great location and no tide or other access restrictions.

In reply to Richard Hession:

White Hopes at Trwyn is ace and hasn't been mentioned. If you like short and burly its got your name on it..

In reply to Richard Hession:
So. How did it go?

In reply to martin heywood: Knowing Rich, he probably ended up bouldering...

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:


Wasting our bloody time....

In reply to andy farnell:

He bouldered in Ogwen on Saturday and I have no idea what he did on Sunday, but he didn't go climbing routes I know that much. However I did have a good conversation with him about classic routes to try at Pen Trwyn. Unfortunately he didn't end the conversation by appearing to be that psyched to actually tie on. Don't hold your breath.

In reply to Ben Farley:

Typical boulderer - talks a good route...

In reply to Ben Farley:

Haha

I obviously didn't get anywhere as I can't drive and nobody else was doing routes to my knowledge :P I didn't fancy Gogarth to sit in clouds hence the trip to to Y Tarw!

Tuesday is bouldering night in Owen's swish new mode of transport although I chatted to Smooth Pete and we are going to go Dinbren. The walk in up scree sounded a bit depressing but I'm sure it will be worth it

The walk in is only 5-10 mins max and not really that steep. When are you going? we should be there tonight and can point out some of the good routes for you.
Cheers

In reply to Richard Hession: Rich, if you can get over to Chester im always keen to get out and have vehicle (by the way its Keith here, used to climb regularly at awesome walls). hope all good...

In reply to Richard Hession: Did you get on the string, or was the pull of the mat too strong for ya?

Andy F