UKC

E8 Flashed

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
On Saturday, a near first in climbing!

Ryan Pasquil Flashed Countdown to disaster - E8 6b - Ilkley

He watched us do it then soloed it!

This along with 2 E7 onsights the week before and an E7 also flashed
Stuart Wood 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

I'm impressed!!! What next?
Sloper 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Superb, where at Ilkley is this?

PS did you do Baby Spice?? I feel from the top twice caught between to minds on the move.
 Jon Read 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Sloper:
Rocky Valley.


Blimey! This is news. Good effort, if a little psycho...!
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Sloper:

Done baby spice before... Very slopey, but very cool!
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Stuart Wood:

Flashing "The Statesman"?
Fiend 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Stuart Wood: Onsight flashing an E8.

Hell, it's almost getting close to real climbing...
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Fiend:
No, it was'nt an Onsight, just a flash. Big difference!
Fiend 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: I was replying to Stuart Wood's "What next??"
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Fiend:

Sorry dude! I see what you mean
Billy the Kid 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Wow, the gangly youth came good!
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Billy the Kid:
Iam just sending the pictures onto the site.
 Tom Briggs 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Photo up in news section.
Jo Bertalot 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Adam, what do you think of the suggestion that once a route gets flashed, it is pretty bad form for other climbers to headpoint it after that, as someone has proved that a flash of the route is possible?
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Jo Bertalot:

Errr, well, not a bad idea in theory
Ian Hill 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Jo Bertalot: on that basis no-one should ever second or TR a route...headpointing just being TRing after all...
 John Gillott 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Ian Hill:

I think Jo had in mind the Horse / Sloper compromise (between the two of them you understand) that it would be bad form to toprope anything that had been led / soloed without prior toprope inspection. Bit of a challenge that to the headpointing boys.
Ian Hill 17 Jun 2002
In reply to John Gillott: there'd certainly be a rush to get in the first headpoint while you *were* still allowed by the rules to TR things...imagine turning up at the crag for a headpoint TR practice to find someone else had just headpointed it and you therefore had to onsight it!
 John Gillott 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Ian Hill:

That'd be OK if they'd already headpointed it; according the the Horse/Sloper consensus you could copy their style. Problem arises if someone has done it onsight / ground up. Under this scheme I forsee severe erosion by headpointers of the very top end routes unless the sport dies out due to the absence of a viable progression ladder!
jon 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Ian Hill:

Luckily most people don't give a toss what Horse and Sloper think about their climbing ethics.
 Michael Ryan 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Hey Adam...thanks for the photo and report...very impressive ascent by Ryan.

Did you guys top rope it or lead it when Ryan watched?

I remember taking photos of Dave Pegg on his ascent many years ago - it was nerve-wracking just watching.

One point on the style question: this is a major improvemenmt in style and commitment BUT someone asked if all ascents now of Countdown should be Flash ascents (or god-forbid better) rather than top rope headpoint style. I would say no.....

The style you do something is a personal choice surely and not something that should be dictated....if you want to top rope or headpoint Countdown that's fine, just don't shout about it as Ryan has raised the bar now quite considerably.

Mick
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

We top roped it and led it while Ry watched. He new the moves pretty well, it has to be said. Still takes a lot of balls though. Would think its quite a bit easier in the Cold!

He didnt use the Rp either! We forgot to leave it in for him, and we told him it was shit anyway, so he didnt bother!
 Al Evans 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Oh my god ryan, what are you playing at you'll be as daft as your dad soon. Adam, stop encouraging him.
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Al Evans:

Hey, i just show him how its done/be his personal chaffeur/photographer/PR Agent!!!
 Michael Ryan 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

You shameless promoter and pimp Adam....get yourself some pimp-daddy furs......and the Blaxploitation CD

I remember watching Hank in Wilton One Al.......on some first ascent when I was a nipper.....he was one of our heros...and he used to climb in jeans which doubled are awe and hero-worship...

M.
Ian Hill 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Mmm I remember seeing him in Anglezarke too in massive flares...that subtle flick of the hip needed to see his feet before standing on a hold...the master!
 Paz 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Sorry to distract from such amusing reminiscence, but:

> The style you do something is a personal choice surely and > not something that should be dictated...

... but if you decide to use a poorer/safer style you might get reminded about it forever by certain guide book authors.
Billy the Kid 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
The grade of E8 6b does suggest it's pretty much a solo in terms of the head issue.
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Billy the Kid:

Well you place gear on the belay ledge to stop yourself rolling down the hill if you fall off. Too be honest if i feel of that id ask whoever was belaying me to hit me with a big stone. Because if you were not dead already, you certainly would want to be!
 Matt 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Jo Bertalot:
Being pedantic it would be impossible for all ascents to be in the same style as you can't flash it (unless its just described) unless someone else is TR/HP it first (unless its been videoed).

Good effort 6b above a 25m death fall. Did he have any mats, not that it would make much difference from that height.

BTW whats the hardest flash and onsight to date, is it bransby on carmen picasso E8 6c?
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Matt:

Nope no mats

Bransby thinks CP is E7, doesnt he?
 Matt 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Don't know its E9 in the GG, but saw E8/9 on some site and heard E8 elsewhere. But i guess he'd know. So what other E8's have been flashed/onsighted?
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Matt:

Apart from Vickers new route Broughton Power in Permbroke I dont think any?

Anyone?
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Although, as pointed out on "the other place" Stuart Cameron did a ground-up, no falls ascent of Extinction, E8 at Gogarth a long time ago.
 Michael Ryan 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> (In reply to Matt)
>
> Apart from Vickers new route Broughton Power in Permbroke I dont think any?
>

Another Lancashire master.....must be the quarried grit.

Mick

OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Lancashire is a top breeding ground. Must be something in the air!
 Tom Briggs 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Something to do with escapism?
Arran 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:I spoke to the carrier of the sacred Pasquil gene earlier, and it's worth pointing out that he led the route (for whatever the crap pro's worth) as apposed to soloing it as you've reported. It's also worth mentioning that Pete Hurley also led it after a quick toprope. I believe that you've got a pic' of Pete giving you the middle finger whilst in the middle of the crux. I think you should post that...
 Michael Ryan 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Arran:

Countdowns beginning to sound like a trade route....have standards really risen that high....or is it not as hard as first thought...

What's your thoughts on the difficulty rating Adam?

Mick
irish si 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

To be honest mick, i climbe with the boys in question, lincoln et al, and you have to see them in action to believe it, standards definitly have taken a reasonable jump in recent times, bring on next winter and wait till you see then sends lined up!
 Michael Ryan 17 Jun 2002
In reply to irish si:

Can't wait to hear about them.....

Hope that they can translate to the Huber routes on El Cap as well...

M
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Arran:

Yes, but its just the belay that he clipped into... Not worth shite!
OP Adam Lincoln 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Benchmark E8! Took a while to figure out the crux.

 Michael Ryan 17 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

well done

M
 Tom Briggs 18 Jun 2002
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

It has to be said that technically, Countdown must be one of the easier grit E8s around. It's mostly on positive holds and and is about 7a+ to top rope (oops, another guilty admission ). In fact, to think it is the same grade as New Statesman seems a bit of a joke, but then JD has said that he thinks NS was the first E9. I wouldn't agree with Adam about Countdown being 'benchmark E8', like Gaia and End of the Affair, it's one of the older, bolder, but technically easier ones.
OP Adam Lincoln 18 Jun 2002
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

I take it you've been on countdown Tom? It is a lot easier if your tall. I thought it was really hard, but Pete and Ryan thought it wasnt too bad. They are 6ft+

How come you didnt lead it Tom?
 Tom Briggs 18 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Maybe it is easier if you're tall. I thought 'the moves' were v steady. I didn't lead it because it's blo*dy terrifying! Which is why it's E8 and Ryan's ascent is a fine effort. But I wouldn't call it benchmark.
Anonymous 18 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

"Ryan Pasquil Flashed Countdown to disaster - E8 6b - Ilkley"


I should hope he did flash it as a fall could be bad for ya health from up there.Not very hard but bold climbing and a high crux add to the interest.

Still a fine effort .

is this the hardest onsight for grit now?

Whats next ?
jack 18 Jun 2002
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Id have to agree with you there tom,

I haven't led it either, so i can shut the f**k up and all that but I've roped it, and witnessed a couple of ascents. I don't think it's easier if your tall though.

Which move is easier and how? (I'm tall and i've got quite a big reach and i get loads of abuse about it!!)

I can't think of an easier E8 (but i'm not saying anything about this guys acheivement - I didn't dare lead it after top roping! I'm not suggesting it's E7)

Good effort.
OP Adam Lincoln 18 Jun 2002
In reply to jack:

The move off the undercut at the top is a lot easier if your tall as you can reach up to small crimp with left then get good crimp with your right. If your short, you get the undercut then get another slopey undercut then get right foot on jug then right hand upto good crimp.
jack 18 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Well I didn't use the big undercut (the right hand one to the right of the rp placement). There is a higher sidepull just above it, probably a bit shit in this heat, which made to move easier regardless of height i think.
jack 18 Jun 2002
In reply to jack:

it's been a while though!
 Nj 18 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: A good effort, well worth applauding.
I must say though, it is about time somebady started doing this, I mean 7a+ on a rope, I should hope he flashed it. Even the harder E8's like Gaia and EotA are supposed to be 7b+ (admittedly, Loaded, Res. Dogs etc are much harder, but safer) and 7b+ is onsighted by everyman and his dog these days. I am impressed that it is getting done, and hope it is the start of a rise in standards.
 StuartM 19 Jun 2002
In reply to jack:

> I can't think of an easier E8 >

Two words for you Jack - Obsession Fatale!
Wire 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Do people reckon that sooner ( quite possibly ) or later it will become Ok to onsight 6c ( british ) and above solos ? I climbed in this territory at one time and got to thinking that at some point the moves become so difficult to work out that there would be a real problem with it. I mean I suspect that if holds are really small and subtle then they are basically invisible on first acquaintance... This applies on loads of not very steep but hard routes, like you get on grit, but much less so on steep limestone where you often get hard moves on obvious holds. Personally ( and I might be wrong ) I reckon that this justifies headpointing as no rise in fitness and technical ability will get round the reading of the moves.. On the other hand perhaps this take on things was just because I was reaching my own ceiling....

Any comments ?
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Wire:
People will get better at reading routes, quicker
 JasonG 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
> People will get better at reading routes, quicker

.... and will develop higher reserves of stamina to scan for the non obvious holds
 StuartM 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: didn't know you were a multi-lingual agent for these guys Adam!
Micky 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Just used a translator on the page, an excerpt

"To chain E8 does not be ill, but the play more excitante is that of the to view, where the fall never is an option (do not you know neither where neither how are going to fall)"
Graham 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

My Spanish is a bit rusty, so I stuck that lot into Free Trnslation dotcom and got this:

The British climbers say that, in its country, the sports escalation no longer is fashionable. And is that in the last years, the traditional escalation has experienced a 'boom' unprecedented. Each day are more the climbers seduced by that mixture of difficulty and commitment, and, although lie seem, are the chavales the ones that more dare and hook with this type of escalation. Two of those alien adolescents to the fear of the fall are Ryan Pasquil and Pete Hurley.



The first one is 18 years old and, almost without being given account it has just to sign the first one ascensión to flash of a way of E8 6b. Is a matter of Contdown to Disaster, a layout of the school of Ilkley, in the region of Yorkshire, open years behind by the teacher of the specialty John Dunne. Pasquil obtained the chain after observing how two of its companions chained the way in top rope, showing a security in if same impressive: the way barely offers protection (the last one fisurero does not protect the upper part of the way) and to complicate still more the matter, the hardest step of the way, 6b in the English scale (something as well as 6c/7a of Fontainebleau), is found above the all,A fall signifies like minimum one more stay or less long in the hospital, depending on the luck of the victim..



Pete Hurley in turn, does neither remain short in this to be risen for the stones with most minimum protection (the ways do not have neither meeting). In a semanita magic, this young climber of 18 resident years in Lancashire was aimed, not a, but eight ways of E7 or more in schools of Wales and Yorkshire. The first one in falling was Heartbeat City, an E8 6c of Llanberis Pass (Wales) that received thus its second one ascensió. Later it would touch the shift to Beginners Mind, E8 6b, also in Llanberis Pass and to Blade, an E7 6c situated in Earl Crag that only knew a pair of ascensiones.



To chain E8 does not be ill, but the play more excitante is that of the to view, where the fall never is an option (do not you know neither where neither how are going to fall). In this style Pete Hurley resolved Jasmine E7 6b, and Salmon E7 6c, two ways situated in Bamford with a zone of aterrizaje terrorífica and Contdown to Disaster, E8 6b, in Ilkley. To finish the week was aimed, to flash this time, TO Place To Be E7 6b, in Rylstone (second or third ascensión) and Street Legal, E7 6b, in Scout Crag.



Does not it be anything badly keeping in mind that the most maximum level reached to view in this type of escalation is E7 and, above all, that these two new mutant of the traditional one barely add 36 years among the two. The future of the British escalation seems assured.

: o )

G
Graham 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Micky:

Damn, beat me to it!

G
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Graham:

Translators dont really work that well!
 anonymouse 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
They do if you whip em.

I like the phrase 'alien adolescents'. It explains a lot.
johncoxmysteriously 19 Jun 2002
In reply to anonymouse:

Well, I like the phrase 'Heartbeat City, in the Llanberis Pass'. Good to see standards of climbing journalism are the same in Spain as here. That'll be the next crag along from that well known Pass route Right Hand Unconquerable, I take it.
JordanBuys 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Do you want to get back and have the route, soon?
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to JordanBuys:

THE ROUTE "Heartbeat City" Ryan wants to go and try and flash this on the weekend.

Though Eternal sounds ace? How was it? Beta?
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to JordanBuys:

Might be off to Wimberry this week. Looks like its going to be warm so may not be suitable for Rylstone.

You working at the weekend? Will text you and let you know where we are. Ryans 19 on this week so we are heading out in Bolton on Say night, prob wont be in any fit state on Sunday!
m@ at work 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

"Ryans 19 on this week so we are heading out in Bolton on Say night"

oh dear, how very unfortunate. what will it be? yates wine lodge and the old three crowns followed by the hedonistic delights of atlantis, all washed down with the finest kebabs sizzles have to offer.

best of luck. you'll need it.

laterzz

m@
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to m@ at work:

ICON! Heard its classy
 MJH 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: No...isn't ICON Ritzy as was....god shows how long it's been since I was last there!
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to MJH:

Yep thats the one!

Though Ryans sister was saying she was there on Saturday and there was sweat dripping from the celling! Nice(not)
 Jon Greengrass 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
its not sweat its rain, condensed from the water evaporating off the clubbers. I was at Cream once and people saw it as a good thing coz everyone was having so much fun.
 MJH 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Ah happy memories!

I can well believe sweat pouring off the roof!

Watch out for my flatmates mum - she goes to try and pull younger blokes like yourself!
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to MJH:

Wicked, What does she look like!
 MJH 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Well she's seen her 50th I think....not bad looking for a woman of her age....oh and she'll invariably be pissed and still able to drink you under the table!
OP Adam Lincoln 19 Jun 2002
In reply to MJH:
Ahh, 50? Maybe a little old!
JordanBuys 19 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Want to go back to ikley soon!
Eternal was fine.
I cant make it this weekend, off to St.Bees for 4 days, come up there!!!!
Jordan.
MK 20 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Adam, I heard a rumour that CTD is actually Robin Barker's route. Know anything of it?

M
ps. you at ME this evening?
OP Adam Lincoln 20 Jun 2002
In reply to MK:

you stirring M?

Not defo JOhn Dunne!
MK 20 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Ok, take your word for it. Rumour probably a case of chinese whispers.
M
Kaj Bromelow 20 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:


".... We top roped it and led it while Ry watched. He new the moves pretty well, it has to be said. Still takes a lot of balls though. Would think its quite a bit easier in the Cold!"



I was at at Ilkley on Saturday and thought it quite warm.
Was this flash even more impressive than it first seems?
Does wearing jeans and a beanie in midsummer cause fingers to perspire more, or are 'alien adolescents' distinguished from earthlings by their lack of sweat glands?
Whatever happened to running shorts and suntans?
Do you wear those things in the clubs? Might explain the sweaty ceiling.

Well done!!

OP Adam Lincoln 20 Jun 2002
In reply to Kaj Bromelow:
Where you in the Rocky Valley? With the guy with long hair, or are the guy with long hair
 Graeme 20 Jun 2002
In reply to Kaj Bromelow: Clubs with sweat dripping off the walls classy. Reminds me of a night I spent in Mutts Nuts in Manchester. What a f*cking dive Oooooooh minging.
Anonymous 20 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Could be!

I was having a bad day, okay!!
ian 29 Jun 2002
In reply to Adam Lincoln: whatis the difference? can someone post some sort of mini dictionary with words like redpoint and headpoint defined please
 Michael Ryan 29 Jun 2002
In reply to ian:

There really is no difference between headpoint and redpoint....except...make sure you don't fall when headpointing.

M
 sutty 30 Jun 2002
In reply to ian: If you go to the features page all will be revealed.
There is a lot more to this site than the forums you know.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...