In reply to SenzuBean:
> Secondly, you need to lean back a bit more than on good friction rock, and you have to really trust the holds, and not change the angle very much (a bit like ice climbing) - if you lean into the rock, your feet are much more likely skate off. "A weighted foot never slips" is a good mantra, and is definitely true for polished rock.
I go with the "weighted foot never slips" mantra for small and delicate feet - the type that you doubt and, once standing on them, trust completely. It makes sense that you won't pop off AFTER you've successfully transitioned your weight onto the grip, unless you bounce about or do something sudden - both bad practice.
... but I've always tried to keep my weight as close to the rock as possible. I thought it was good style, particularly on faces that are on-balance, to have your hips into the rock so that the minimum exertion in your arms is required and your legs do all the work.
Are you suggesting that I should be hanging out a bit more so that the force on my feet is angled towards the face?