UKC

James Pearson said after doing The Promise.

"For the last few years I've been trying to find something on grit that's really hard - a really good line - quite a standout feature, rather than some poxy squeezed in eliminaty hard thing, something really outstanding to do.

I'd been racking my brain for ages, so to finally manage to do something like this really cool looking arete it's really good. To try and leave my "mark", if you know what I mean.

Because there's not much stuff left on Grit, which is a shame because the climbing is so nice and the routes are all really good; there's just not much left of great quality. I'm happy I've done it."

What are the last great lines on Gritstone that remain to be done? Of quality!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Funny isn't it. In that recent Dawes interview he reckoned there were loads.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Thne groove at Cratcliffe for starters...looks a good, pure line - definitely not squeezed in IMHO. James Pearson has worked that on TR hasn't he

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

there is still some big blank bits at wimberry

not quite as attractive to the sheff crowd mind

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: The big wall left of New Statesman, that's the most obvious one in Yorkshire. There are planty of other quality ones, but why would one divulge them on a public forum?!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5409.0.html

In reply to Fiend:

Cheers Fiend.


Are any of the below E0?

Fiend's list:

Grit route/highball Last Great Problems....

Shameless list nerd topic, sorry :-X But even so might be amusing.

Some of these shamelessly stolen from Readza's Grit List (update it damn you!), others are semi-obvious, and some are hypothetical nonsense. And maybe some have been done by persons who remain anonymous to all but those in the know...

Stanage:
Wall right of White Wand

Burbage:
Line right of Superstition.
Roof right of knight's move (if holly ever goes)
Destructive Tendencies direct
Slab left of 3 Blind Mice
Impossible groove
Rib left of Notorious BLG
Face/arete right of Simba's Pride
Braille Trail direct
Groove and rib right of Parthian
Arete right of Goliath
Wizard Ridge
Wizard Ridge Direct
Groove right of Captain Invincible

Quarries:
Blank wall at Lawrencefield
Blank wall at far end of Millstone

Froggatt:
Wall left of Beau Geste
Wall right of Beau Geste
Greedy Pig Direct

Curbar:
Smiling Buttress
Smiling Buttress arete
Elder Statesmen direct

Rivelin / quarries:
Slab right of That's My Lot
Direct wall beneath that E4 6a

Gardoms?
Birchens?
Chatsworth?

Cratcliffe:
The groove
Thin seam/overlap parallel to the groove

Ramshaw:
Crack right of Ramshaw Crack

Roaches:
Headless Horseman arete / roof

Hen Cloud
Chircausio
45' arete at right end of crag

Elsewhere:
Wimberry - wall right of MaDMAn

Yorkshire:
Lots at Brimham.
Charlie's Dilemma prow
Prow left of Giggling Crack
Wall left of New Statesman
Loaded Direct

Lancashire:
Wall left of Alec Trench @ Egerton
Wall right of corner right of Ice Cool Acid Test @ Egerton
Arete right of Cherry Bomb @ Egerton
Other line on Stanworth Slab
Wall above pool @ Denham

etc etc, can't think of any more now...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Anglezarke - direct finish to Karma Mechanic, direct finish to King of Kings (if there are any holds - not sure).

Andy F

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Elsewhere:
Wimberry - wall right of MaDMAn

Isn't that Cheltenham Gold Cup? An E4 6c? There may be a direct start to it...

there are other bigger blanker bits at wimberry... e.g. the arete right of sick bay shuffle...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: The Groove, the last remaining 'great' line on grit.

In reply to ste_d:

That was mentioned later in the thread.

Al: That was mentioned earlier in this one!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


I sounds like he is saying that The Promise was a "Last Great Line" - can't say I am convinced!


Chris

In reply to Fiend: Sorry, I sometimes dont read all the thread. Just ignore me if I duplicate.

Think Gaz did that a few years ago. The Vortex?
Sherlock

In reply to ste_d:Maybe it's down to the walkin?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

When we were there last month it was well chalked up all the way to the top. Is someone getting close?

In reply to Phil S: couple of points:
- the wimberry walk in is ony slightly more taxing than the Stanage one, especially when compared with places like kinder and barden fell
- can you remind me who did the hardest route at Wimberry, and where he lives

In reply to TimS:

well the 'hardest' route of course is very debateable

did s whittaker do something tricky up the wall right of appointment with fear?

but then kevin thaw has also done numerous hard routes there and doesn't he live in california...

In reply to Phil S:

coupled with chews proximity to Sheffield

some of the routes are a tad green at wimberry too

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: the seriously blank, steep wall to the right of ulyses bow and goliaths groove if anyone knows which one i mean.

In reply to TimS:

Sam Whittaker App with Death, lives in Sheffield!

In reply to ste_d: I think it's the greeness that would be a problem for super hard routes at wimberry - I've only been a couple of times but it seems to be luminous whenever its cold enough to get really good conditions.

In reply to TimS:

to be honest its always luminous, even in the hottest of summers, but at least is dry and luminous then, as opposed to being wet and luminous

i think the trouble with the remaining lines is, they are very uncompromising, big, bold, blank, sustained and with terrible landings...

all said, no doubt someone will do them eventually

In reply to ste_d: from what I hear half of the established harder lines are waiting for repeats before people even get stuck into the projects!

In reply to TimS:

i'm sure your right

i'm not sure whether master thaw has repeated any of the routes put up by whittaker and pegg et al

In reply to ste_d:Think MaDMaN is unreapeated. The Cheltenam Goldcup topo line in Rockfax is wrong, the routes traverses off to the right, not direct into E11 terratory.

In reply to Phil S:

Do you know if anyone has done Possessed?

I've not done CGC but always presumed you traversed in from Berties and then went direct. You reckon it heads off right then?

In reply to Phil S:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it MaDMAn?

Andy F

In reply to ste_d:

Is there not also the possibility if a direct finish to MaDMAn (if that's not already been mentioned)?

Not that it doesn't look scary enough already.....

In reply to andy farnell:

Yes it is and anyone who knows Pego would know why.

In reply to andy farnell:

yes, i believe so

In reply to seagull:

sounds like there would be yeah, think it heads off toward trident near the top

In reply to andy farnell:

Come on.People oN here have the wort spelling ever, and you pick me up on THAT!!!!

In reply to ste_d:

That's what the BMC guide says.

In reply to Phil S:

It is quite an important mistake though........

In reply to ste_d: SW was trying a direct start upto the finish of sick bay,up a faint rib. E10 was mentioned.

In reply to seagull:

Maybe if you're a chemical engineer or a drug taker!!!

In reply to Phil S:

It wasn't a spelling mistake. All the letters were in the correct order, just one of the capital's was wrong. A minor yet very important point.

BTW what is a wort spelling?

Andy F

In reply to Phil S: It clearly mattered to Dave Pegg.

In reply to Calder:

I hope he sees this thread, he'd find it hilarious.

In reply to andy farnell:Let's just call it Madman then go down the Hacienda for rave man! AVVVVIT! Roses are on tonight!

In reply to seagull:

Probably in a board meeting in AMERICA now.

In reply to andy farnell:
Two of the most gripping ascents I've ever had to witness/photograph were the two routes (MaDMAn and Appointment With Death) at Wimberry. Gives me the shivers just thinking about it.

In reply to David Simmonite:

Just looking at your MaDMAn picture gives me the shivers.

In reply to David Simmonite: Remember seeing a copy of your madman photo in an old climbing mag at a mates. HAD to nick it! The two chaps in the background going about there business as normal really set it off.

In reply to Phil S:
I forgot about them. If only they knew they could have been moments away from having their day screwed up big style.

In reply to David Simmonite:

How long was Mr Pegg on the "phsyche ledge" for? Think i'd never be able to leave it and carry on. Major mental overload! Not that I could get upto it in the first place. That photo is up there with Johnny on Beau.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Wizard ridge?

In reply to seagull:

How so?

Dave has moved into a ranch near Rifle and is busy publishing guidebooks.

http://wolverinepublishing.com/

Even the Froz hasn't attempted MaDMAn....scared the pebbles may snap.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Kevin,scared? Never! He could pull on that pebble on Order.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

The discussion about getting the capitals in the right place Mick. Having climbed a fair bit with Dave and known him quite well I think he'd find it amusing. There was nothing sinister in my post!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Didn't Jordan Buys do that arete to the right of cherry bomb? E8?

In reply to Sam Dewhurst:

Yes he did (stunning line). Ditto Gaz Parry with Vortex. The list is a bit outdated.