In reply to Christheclimber:
As you know, I use both and cross check.
We went to Sabaton the other day, a crag I usually drive by as it’s always packed. I got on a couple of ‘musical note’ routes and found them to be slippy, polished, caked in chalk and not enjoyable as a result. So much for star ratings. After that I avoided the higher rated routes and had a great time on, especially Uprising, 2 stars and brilliant.
Looking at the bigger picture, it’s amazing how fast this sector has polished up considering how young it is. So while I find the Panjika guide a little lacking in descriptions, and often harder on the grade side, they cover every crag without the need to use/sell an app, and their anti star policy does spread the load better.