In reply to sparkass:
I've done Monster Crack - it obviously isn't your average route but its not a total nightmare (far more reasonable than Breakaway at Henna, which I failed/ran out of daylight on).
The first pitch is easy but very loose - my very experienced loose rock companion (Frank Ramsay, say no more) led this. Its probably pretty unnerving. The second pitch is probably 5c for a few moves but the crack is lined with calcite inside and I was pretty happy with the gear, nuts and friends. I think the belay at the end of that pitch was fine but can't remember what it was. The next pitch is easier (5b) but the rock is poor and deteriorates badly towards the end of the pitch, deeply honeycombed and suspect. Didn't really like any of the gear on this pitch. The belay in the huge sentry box was a couple of insitu warthogs when I did it. They seemed bomber. The top pitch (which my mate led) is unique, massively exposed chalk face climbing doing hard rockovers (6a) from one flint band to the next - protected by two insitu warthogs which again seemed good. The rock deteriorates to the top but the climbing eases. Was sure I'd have been comfortable leading it.
I think we thought it was E5ish but we were both extremely solid onsight E6 leaders at the time, comfortable on all rock types. It was a fantastic route though, a brilliant and highly memorable blast. Hope that helps.