In reply to Woker:
"I disagree that A VD leader wont get themselves in any trouble on a sustained E4 6a crack either." OK....
"Firstly they are likely to drop off and test their pro." ....if they get off the ground
"This is a dangerious activity."...yep that will be climbing then
"Secondly they will not probably be able to let go long enough to place pro."..they wont get far so thats hardly a problem
" Thirldy the type of pro used on harder routes is often more tricky to place. "...ditto
"How many VS leaders can climb the 5b wall variation to ash tree wall ?" ...most otherwise they wouldnt be VS leaders. It is normal to expect a leader at a grade to be able to boulder at least two technical grades harder than there normal lead grade.
"Not many I reckon, still that's not the point. "...now I understand
" Im my books if the initial moves are rock hard but don't deserve an adj grade then whatever climbs above those inital moves should not include them in the adj grade.".......
....so do something about it and write the Woker guide to climbing.... you are clearly keen, opinionated, and have enough experience to give it a shot so why not?