In reply to polished_circus:
Looks like a lot of preplaced gear in the photos... pinkpointing in other words. When's it going to get a proper redpoint?
Actually, I've talked to David about this. He had been asked to put off doing the first ascent for a day so that it could be filmed for new film on Lake District climbing that some of the locals are making. So when he arrived at the crag early, he warmed up by abbing down the route, practicing the odd move on the way. Some quickdraws had to be placed to keep him in to the rock. When he got to the bottom he realised if he didn't climb it quick the sun would go off it so he just pulled the ropes down and climbed it straight away, and in fact placed most of the gear on the lead including a wire and a Friend low down. However, much of the rest of the gear was preplaced pegs and some of the Quickdraws were in place on these. He's quite honest about it.
With regards to comments about the grade, it is E8 (6c) as some of the pegs are not good. The French grade is there as an indication of what it would be if it were bolted. For the benefit of Canadians and other foreigners reading this, by general agreement among local climbers for many years, to preserve the element of adventure, bolts are ethically unacceptable on Lakeland Rock, except in quarries and on Limestone. David has done a number of E8s and E9s over the last few years very few of which have been repeated by 16 year old sport climbers in approach shoes or indeed anybody else. This is because you don't just need to be strong and talented, you need to be bold and brave as well. However do come and show us otherwise - if you let us know in advance, we'll have the film crew on hand to record everything in glorious technicolour - should be spectacular - one way or the other.
The crag is apparently called "Cam". Thanks to Al Phizackle for this.
