In reply to keith-ratcliffe:
I remember as a teenager talking to my brother about using gravity to hold onto holds while I was in my 'climbing nut' phase
, and reckon what I was getting at is what greasy prussics posting about being in the right position relative to the hold to be able to use friction to hold onto it - since gravity is pulling you down, you need to be below the hold to use it (gravity) to create the friction to stay holding onto the hold, plus having arms slightly bent, and having enough core and shoulder strength to be able to exert some pressure/keep you in position I think. Simple
I guess you could do worse than going bouldering on sloping gritstone a lot while it's cold (or Northumberland sandstone if you're futher north), it could naturally fill any gaps muscle wise which might be holding you back in being able to hang onto slopers and sloping breaks.
Before I developed dodgy elbows I found that mixing bouldering on gritstone with climbing indoors quite complementary. Time to try and sort them once and for all before I'm not in my 30's anymore...
Post edited at 02:08