"Malcolm Smith should sleep well tonight! After all the talk about his trip to Cresciano with Andy Earl and Gaz Parry, Malc has climbed Dreamtime today confirming the grade at Font 8c. Malcolm got really close early on their trip but then the weather turned too warm."
When Andy did it Careless (which seems to me to be morpho - height dependent) it certainly wasn't on a top rope, he only had one spotter, who got me to help with the spotting - and shock horror he fell off right at the top - fortunately the mats did the job. Later on whilst not standing too close I saw Andy finish the job off, well done indeed.
8C Dreamtime Cresciano Switzerland Frederic Nicole 8 ascends
8C New base line Magic Wood Switzerland Bernd Zangerl 3 ascends
8C Black eagle SD Rocklands South Africa Frederic Nicole 1 ascends
8C Trip hop Fontainebleau France Sebastien Frigault 1 ascends
8C Transdendenz Sachsen Germany Thomas Willenberg 1 ascends
8C Walk away sd Fairy steps United Kingdom John Gaskins 1 ascends
8C Banshousha Ogawayama Crystal Slab Japan Tokio Muroi 1 ascends
8C Gossip DEU: Frankenjura Germany Markus Bock 1 ascends
8C Amazonia Fontainebleau France Francis Hélias 1 ascends
8C l'anarchiste St Anne France Philip Moser 1 ascends
8C Viva la evolution Flirsch Austria Bernd Zangerl 1 ascends
8C Extradition Coire Lagan United Kingdom Si O'Conor 1 ascends
8C Byaku-dou Hourai No repeats 1 ascends
8C Zunami Saalachtal No repeats 1 ascends
8C+ Tonino '78 Mont Sibilini No repeats Mauro Calibani 1 ascends
Not that anyone would have noticed, but the news report has been removed at the request of the various people mentioned in it.
tim stubley10 Feb 2004
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: but the smartboys and planetfear articles still remain on their respective sites?
Johners10 Feb 2004
In reply to Graham Taylor: Nice one Graham . Are you now a third official and what do you think of video referees ? you know that would stop the cheats top roping and THEN soloing highball 8a+ bloody poor eh . Or is it 8b or c or bollocks ye hah abort abort it's a long way to Tipperary life is a cabaret old chum...........beam me up the nineties were bad but you lot never even found the plot ........ over....................beep................beep..............beep..............beep...........................................................------------------------------------
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:Lets back onto the subject of Dreamtime.
Steve Dunning made the first UK ascent not Malcolm.
Its also worth pointing out the fact that on a world scale this is an old problem,and one that Sharma spanked.
I think Steve should be praised for his ascent in the same light Malcolm has been.
Quite impressive that Steve stills put a harness on as well as bouldering.
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)Lets back onto the subject of Dreamtime.
> Steve Dunning made the first UK ascent not Malcolm.
Yes I believe so....why hasn't he got mo props for it?
Johners11 Feb 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Your all armchair pole smokers whingers who can't, the only way you can get any where near these climbs is via your pathetic drivel . Cut the shite and get out and do a bit .