Where's the 'bomber wire' to leave the first groove, is it the high one i couldnt reach until id left the groove?
Anyone else think the crux is flaky wall?
Top run-out not such a run-out?
In reply to Alex Mason: Alex - I did this one about 1990 on a very cold september day. I remember the crux to be the lower groove, but I couldn't feel my fingers so this may be iffy memory. I certainly think its harder than Flaky and I found small hexes useful for the pockets on the top wall, so it wasn't really run out. Brilliant route though.
In reply to Billg: ah cool, yeah i can picture where they would have gone.
The lower groove lures you in, holds you out of balance on a little mono and awkward crimp, so you wanna get out quick but only 5c i thought?
Fri Night Vid Tropical Lines - New Routes in Brazil
This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Brazil in 2023 when Felipe Camargo travelled across the country with his brother, Bruno, hoping a leave a legacy of hard routes for future generations of climbers. Inspired by surf and skate films, the...