UKC

Wall of Horrors gear

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 madmats 18 Jun 2022

Shameless request here for what gear is needed for the upper crux of Wall of Horrors at Almscliff.....

Keen to get on it this Summer when over for a short trip and would love to know what size cams are needed. Guidebook says 'large cams' which is a bit vague, so any beta please?

Thanks!

2
In reply to madmats:

An old school Friend 4 is the one. I used a quadcam 3.8 (!) that I borrowed which fitted fine as well. 
 

a blue Camalot or the next biggest one would fine as well.

1
 Strontium Dog 18 Jun 2022
In reply to madmats:

I remember a couple of large solid stem friends, probably 3 and 4.

Have fun.

SD.

1
OP madmats 18 Jun 2022
In reply to madmats:

Great, thanks for the tips!

 Dave Musgrove 19 Jun 2022
In reply to madmats:

The crucial gear for the upper wall is a rock 4 in a key hole slot. 

 Graeme Hammond 19 Jun 2022
In reply to madmats:

the large gear is for the bottom of the vertical crack after the boulder problem crux not the upper one. Think i used a silver dragon 6/ or wild country friend 4, think blue cam would be too small until a bit higher up the crack but it wouldn't be much bolder. After that you reach a horizontal break that takes a variety of gear for the upper crux, think large cam options on the left (blue cam?) through to green cam on the right or wires but my memory is a bit hazy.

you could watch this if you want some more beta  youtube.com/watch?v=pHyJUR6C7a4&

 Andy Hardy 19 Jun 2022
In reply to madmats:

Why not just ab down it first?

5
 mrphilipoldham 19 Jun 2022
In reply to Andy Hardy:

Coz he wants to log it as an onsight! 

7
In reply to Andy Hardy:

Maybe because if he doesn't have the necessary gear he will have to come back a  different day.

 dan gibson 20 Jun 2022
In reply to madmats:

I seem to remember inserting a couple of pebbles into a pocket and threading with shoelace.

Bomber. You'll be fine.

1
 PaulJepson 20 Jun 2022
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Needs to get themselves the James Pearson book of climbing terminology. They'll be fine with that. 

8
 TheGeneralist 20 Jun 2022
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

> Coz he wants to log it as an onsight! 

Cant believe that got down votes !

No sense of humour  some people.

3
 mrphilipoldham 20 Jun 2022
In reply to TheGeneralist:

The thought I might have even remotely irked a few of them gives me a warm fuzzy feeling inside


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