UKC

 Access to Wildcat has finally been restored, after much delicate negotiation by the BMC access team, under strict rules. Please read the complete rules on the BMC RAD.

Basically to access Wildcat you must abseil in and climb out! You must stay very close to the base of the crag. Under no circumstances must you cross or interfere with the fences. There are cameras recording the fences and also much of it is in eyesight of the instructors.

Please stick to the simple rules and avoid the total loss of access to this great climbing area!

Thanks John.

As mentioned in the thread in the Crag Access forum, see the RAD entry for full details https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=386 .

What you've said just about covers it though.

Since the previous crag closure the fence height has been raise, and it would now be a lot more hassle to try to get in over it rather than stick to the agreed abseil approach.

The camera, which is the motion activated type often used as wildlife cams, has been moved up out of the reach of any casual vandalism. It points at the old gap in the wall where the crag approach used to go.

I'd be keen to hear what state the crag is in now. I spoke to the landowner about the need for occasional tidy-up/de-veg work and it sounds like this should be fine, so long as they're consulted first.

Thanks for your (BMC) efforts in getting our access back.

The crag is understandably a little more vegetated than normal, but the most popular routes seem OK (only been once since the ban lifted ) ... hopefully a dry autumn with a bit of traffic and the crag will be reasonably nice and clean again.  There were also abseils in place on Lynx/Golden Yardstick, Catwalk/Pupilla and Broken Toe/Jackdaw grooves.  I have not yet checked the other ab points.

When you approach along the top of the crag (as we all must do now!) there is a clear sign at the ab point at the top of Jackdaw Grooves/Broken Toe so people new to the crag can orient themselves a bit. 

I bring a dedicated ab rope - but it is more usual to ab on your climbing rope and then pull it through.  I don't know exact abseil lengths required for each ab point but estimate most to be around 30-35m. A pair of 50m ropes will give you plenty to spare. 

Thanks again for getting our access back!

Had a fantastic day here yesterday, thanks to anyone involved in getting the venue open again. I know some areas have been cleaned up in the past where some 'light' gardening has made routes available again. Would this be a bad idea due to the access rights being a bit delicate? Ivy has really crept up some buttresses on the bottom half, stopping us getting on some routes.

I noticed on the access notes this private company works with kids and felt climbing access until recently didn't fit in with safeguarding and insurance requirements. OK, not sure why but grateful a compromise has been found.

It was great getting on the crag and cracking a HVS route I'd been eyeballing for ages.

The crag could do with a bit more traffic, it's worth the time.

Huge thanks to all involved. I'll be back!

Martin

Is the route with the plastic bolt-on holds still there? I fancied a go on that!

I think they're still there, but they're out of bounds!! I imagine the plastic is already mossy/slimy, with regular puddles in the jugs. It would be entertaining to have a go, but probably not pleasant 

That's on Upper Tor which is still banned I believe.

I mentioned this to the site manager at the last meeting and I think it should be fine, so long as we give a heads up on when we plan to carry out any gardening. 

If anyone fancies organising something like this do let me (jon.fullwood@thebmc.co.uk) know and I'll ask the centre. They have fewer residents in over winter, so this might be the best time from their point of view.

Thanks so much to you and anyone else involved in the access negotiations. I'd been meaning to go to Wildcat for ages. My boyfriend and I had an absolutely fantastic day there last weekend!