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Beinn Eighe - Triple Buttress

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I wonder if someone can help me with instructions as to the approach to climb East Buttress. How do I get to the quartzite tiers once in the Corrie? Thanks

 jonny taylor 21 Aug 2025
In reply to Nuria Carballal:

This might not be the answer you're looking for, but I think the common (and good) answer is "climb a cool route on the sandstone tier". The terraces make it fairly easy to move from where you arrive to a choice of different routes on the quartzite tier.

Somebody else may be able to advise on the practicalities of getting direct onto the terrace, I'm not sure about that.

 DaveHK 21 Aug 2025
In reply to Nuria Carballal:

Follow the dashed arrows.


In reply to DaveHK:

Cool! Thanks.

In reply to jonny taylor:

Sounds like an idea, thank you.

 Dunthemall 21 Aug 2025
In reply to Nuria Carballal:

Had to rope up getting to the start of East Buttress (Summer) (D)

Blame the fact we had trapped a stag, on the terrace in front of us, but its mostly a walk to there.

In reply to Dunthemall:

Thanks

 JCurrie 21 Aug 2025
In reply to Nuria Carballal:

The bottom line on Dave’s photo shows the line I have taken. It is a straightforward ledge except for a short section where it passes into and out of a corner. It has slopy, often wet rock above a big and disconcerting drop and a rope is advisable.

 Xav1W 15:55 Mon
In reply to jonny taylor:

I tried that years ago, the sandstone tier is a lot of long grass section with compact rock, hard to protect, not fun, terrifying, I won't do that again. 

 robertmichaellovell Global Crag Moderator 16:39 Mon
In reply to DaveHK:

ahem David... copyright breach

1
 Rick Graham 16:48 Mon
In reply to robertmichaellovell:

Might be an advert

 DaveHK 17:19 Mon
In reply to robertmichaellovell:

> ahem David... copyright breach

Oops. You can slap my wrist or give me a Chinese burn or something.  

In reply to Xav1W:

Ah, my apologies, I hadn't spotted that the OP was asking specifically about the East Buttress, and hadn't appreciated that the quality of the sandstone tier varies that much. The sandstone corner crack on Central Buttress (Summer) (VS) was absolutely stunning, but that's on the wrong buttress. Sorry about that.

Post edited at 18:10

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