Are there any crags in South Wales with a lot of low grade sport routes? I mean 4-5's. Thinking of taking a friend who's getting back into climbing. I'll happily lead 5's. 6a's probably pushing it.
Rhossili Beach (Mermaid Wall) is superb if the tides are right. Needs a decent Spring to give a 4-5 hour window, there are some more 5s and low 6s on the non tidal crags above (retribution wall, wedge wall, black buttress).
Only just in Wales by a whisker, but lots of amenable climbing has been added to Wyndcliff Quarry in the last couple of years. The UKC crag page is probably the best guide there is currently, use the CC Lower Wye book to identify an obvious line, then use the UKC listings and count the boltlines to find routes. There is a Wye Sport guidebook imminent.
In reply to ell: if your getting a friend back into climbing go to mermaid wall. Why go to a sandstone quarry when you can climb in a fantastic location and have tea and cake before you go home..
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