In reply to Michael Gordon:
>.... but nowadays the term has a strict definition, part of which is that rests aren't allowed. It's not aid in the sense of gaining height, but the fact you are resting still means this is aiding your ascent, i.e. letting you recover between moves.
Eh? Not true.
Feel free to use any natural places u like, ledge, arm bar, knee bar, head bar, that is part of the route. No hands rests included. Resting like this is absolutely fine, but on the super hard routes where stuff like knee bars rests might just make it possible to complete the route, someone who subsequently does it without the rest, made it harder for themselves, and that is to be considered a better style, u might note it in yr log, or it might be reported that way if 9 something/ newsworthy these days.
A no hands rest on a ledge... Everyone takes it for as long as they personally want to / need to.
You are climbing the route in way that you could have solo'd it in theory, where no gear or ropes could be pulled / sat on, only you have the gear to protect you if you fail to on - SIGHT it and fall.
Traversing to a ledge on another route is not allowed.
I need to do a cleaner ascent of Chepito, for this reason, a no hands rest ledge is sort of en-route, + i took it, but i also see it as off the pure line of the route + i can + will do it without.