UKC

/ New bolting at horse shoe

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Pumbaa1987 - on 08 Apr 2018

Hi guys. Been a while since I’ve been to horse shoe and I hear it’s been rebolted. Has this sorted out some of the run outs there? My girlfriend is really struggling with climbing outside at the mintue and I think this would be a good place if the spacing has been sorted 

UKB Shark - on 08 Apr 2018
In reply to Pumbaa1987:

Below article says most routes had 1-3 extra bolts added.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-rebolting-round-up

Not been since it was done but I expect/hope some of the spicy runouts on the main wall remain 

 
Mick Ward - on 08 Apr 2018
In reply to Pumbaa1987:

You might have to stay off the main wall - and off the choss!  If in any doubt, would just clip-stick stuff and have a good play around. End of winter - I'm sure there are a lot of us whose heads could do with being in better shape.

As an aside, is Blackwell Halt still on the go?  That seemed OK, back in the day. (Sorry, have left the area.)

If you could get down to Portland, later in the year, that would be a good place. Don't rush though - weather still generally crap.

Mick

robert-hutton on 08 Apr 2018
In reply to Pumbaa1987:

Yes now all new shiny bolts, first clip is lower then of old and at least two or three bolts now in, you need to read the lines as the bots have been added on solid rock and not always where the easyest clip might be.

 

Pumbaa1987 - on 08 Apr 2018
In reply to ukb & bmc shark:

Cheers! I don’t mind a spicy run out, it’s the mrs, she struggles with the head game. Just got back form Siuana, 7 bolts including the chains in 30m, that’s good bolting. 

stp - on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Pumbaa1987:

I think the runouts at Horseshoe remain but the starts have been made safer.

However the bolting on the main wall at nearby Darlton 2 are very close together. Something like 13 bolts in 20m.

Post edited at 09:24
roger whetton on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Pumbaa1987:

It's a bit of a curates egg. Whilst some starts are safer, some are unchanged and a clip stick is certainly still useful. Some runouts have been lessened but some remain the same - if you have a "panic" clip then make sure that you take it. And some of the better easy routes have been debolted, but that's another matter!

 

Luke90 on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to roger whetton:

What do you mean by a "panic" clip? I've not come across that term before.

mkean - on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Luke90:

https://www.kong.it/en/2-products/items/f38-aid-climbing/p420-panic

Or more generically a stiff quickdraw that can be clipped from lower down.

buxtoncoffeelover - on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Luke90:

Also known as a 'stiffie'. My homemade version is a short sling inside a 40cm plastic tube with a lock-open/click-shut carabiner at the distal end. Perfect for that distant next bolt 

In reply to Pumbaa1987:

For routes at an outdoor crag, Horseshoe wasn't really that run-out to be honest. The Main Wall had a few spicy relics from the 1980s, but most of the rest of the crag was pretty much standard for an outdoor crag even before the re-bolting. Things have been improved a little with the rebolting work but generally the bolts outdoor are much further apart than those found at indoor walls. This may be what you or your partner are basing your assessment on. If so then I would urge caution, drop your grade a bit, and take it easy on the routes.

Alan

n-stacey - on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to Pumbaa1987:

If everything is safe, within reach and clipable, why bother?

Where has the adventure and risk gone?

6
Lemony - on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to n-stacey:

The 99% of british rock that isn't a sport crag?

d_b on 09 Apr 2018
In reply to n-stacey:

Henna Cliff, where clipping bolts attached to the "rock" makes it more dangerous not less.

Bulls Crack - on 10 Apr 2018
In reply to n-stacey:

For sport cliffs I prefer things to be clippable! Getting the balance right between that and over-bolting, such as I've seen at some French and Spanish cliffs, is the main thing. 


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